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Paul Birkeland · 162743

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Offline johnsonad

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Reply #45 on: February 06, 2021, 05:49:07 AM
And another for good measure :) 

Aaron Johnson


Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #46 on: February 26, 2021, 01:11:48 PM
Here's a BeePre I made for a local customer.  He wanted the sound of the decked out BeePre 2 that I loaned him, but something physically a lot larger with a remote, meters, etc.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #47 on: February 26, 2021, 01:12:50 PM
Here are some more shots.
« Last Edit: February 26, 2021, 02:28:23 PM by Paul Birkeland »

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline 2wo

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Reply #48 on: February 26, 2021, 05:01:33 PM
I love the industrial look of the front panel...John

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Offline Thermioniclife

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Reply #49 on: February 28, 2021, 10:03:38 AM
Another sweet Design. Hey PB I'm considering one of those Khozmo series motorized attenuators. Did you bother to measure the quiescent and operational current of this unit, if so can you expound?
And also what are your thoughts regarding this unit in general?
Thanks,
Lee

Lee R.


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #50 on: February 28, 2021, 10:07:04 AM
Nice work PB! That's a really cool looking BeePre!

Aaron Johnson


Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #51 on: February 28, 2021, 12:28:23 PM
The Khozmo didn't seem to draw much as far as I can remember.  I did run it on a bench supply to see what it wanted in terms of minimum voltage and to be sure the motor wasn't pulling a ton of current.  Arek will answer your questions if you send him an e-mail (be sure to mention that I sent you, as I bug him a lot!).

At its essence, this is functionally identical to a BeePre 2 with all the upgrades, and swapping it out for Doc B's BeePre 2, the differences were nice and subtle, as they should be!

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Thermioniclife

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Reply #52 on: February 28, 2021, 01:37:46 PM
Thanks PB, It looks like a quality unit. The only thing that scares me is the un-godly length. I scaled it using your photo as best I could
and I make it at between 5.375-5.5 inches in length. I have an upcoming project that I would like to use one of these.
 I will contact Arek for the details. As always PB Thank you.
Regards,
Lee

Lee R.


Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #53 on: February 28, 2021, 02:46:22 PM
Yeah, that sucker is really deep.  I added a standoff to support the top plate right behind it, but also considered the possibility that I would need to physically attach the attenuator back there if it didn't feel stable. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Deke609

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Reply #54 on: February 28, 2021, 04:11:02 PM
@PB and anyone else with a motorized volume control - Is there any labelling that indicates the motor manufacturer?  I'm trying to figure out a diy way of attaching a 15 deg. step motor to a Seiden rotary switch that also allows for manual switching.  No luck yet - it would help if I knew what such a gizmo was called (assuming they exist for retail purchase). Hoping that I'm just not doing the correct search. 

cheers and many thanks, Derek



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Reply #55 on: February 28, 2021, 04:29:50 PM
They are stepper motors.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Deke609

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Reply #56 on: February 28, 2021, 04:48:27 PM
Thanks. I meant the manual override bit. Don't know what that's called.



Online Paul Birkeland

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Reply #57 on: February 28, 2021, 04:52:34 PM
You can rotate a stepper motor slowly with your hand and it shouldn't cause problems.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Deke609

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Reply #58 on: February 28, 2021, 05:14:32 PM
Many thanks.



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Reply #59 on: April 23, 2021, 01:51:30 PM
A local customer approached me a while ago about building a kit for him, and we went back and forth for a while before coming to the conclusion that what he really wanted was a fully upgraded Stereomour with a remote control.  In order to do this, I had custom top, front, back, and bottom panels made, and I shrunk the top panel to a 10x10 in the process since the controls and jacks all moved off the top panel.

I cut the wood base down and used my scroll saw to remove enough material to get everything tucked in there.  It was a very tight fit!  Standoffs in the corners and along the side edges hold the top and bottom panels together. 

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man