Voltage check question. 10 and 44-45 [resolved]

[canonken]

Resistance check good, 4 LEDs are illuminated, tube heaters visible after a few seconds.

I found this thread and have the same issue with 80V showing at 44 and 45.  I will let it sit running for a bit and check later.  Bottlehead crew, can you validate if I need to wait for these values to go to zero before even thinking about connecting anything?
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=13131.0

I have have 80V on 10.  I looked and do not see an immediate issue, wanted to see if this jumps out as something specific.  I do notice 2, which reads 80V is connected to 10 via a capacitor...so is that where I am getting this reading?

Thanks!

[Doc B.]

80V at 10 is no bueno. That implies that the 475K resistor between 10 and 11 is not properly grounded. Try reflowing 11L and check again.

[canonken]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I tried to reflow 11L from both sides.  I then checked continuity all around 11L and 11L, including right on the lead to the capacitor (see picture) and I got a beep for continuity.

I can certainly keep trying to heat things (worry about damage if I do too much, you tell me otherwise!), but theoretically if I damaged the resistor, would that cause my issue?

Ken

[canonken]

If it helps:

I get a 475k ohm reading on 22/23, no issue.  Instantly snaps to it.

I do the same on 10/11 and sometimes it reads 4M ohms or 40k ohms depending on where I read it from, and the reading drifts.

[Paul Birkeland]

Maybe you could post some pics of your build in that area.  Usually what you are experiencing is from a loose solder joint.

[canonken]

Sure here.  This is after I reflowed, so it got a little messy.  Some of the texture is from the point of the test leads scratching the solder.  I soldered both sides on this to see if it helped, before it was just the front.

I generally cut the leads long, solder, then trim.

[Paul Birkeland]

The solder joint of that resistor where the 0.47uF cap connects looks a little cold.

[canonken]

I soldered it from the other side, and have been scratching it with the test leads.  It had a full wrap of the wire around the lug before I soldered.  I do have continuity between the cap lead and lug.  I shook it hard and it does not move.

[Paul Birkeland]

This one.

[canonken]

It was OK, I 'unfixed it' reheating the top, and have now refixed it.

While I will trust the pros here, I feel like I have reheated the joints a few times and still getting that reading.

Appreciate the help.

[Paul Birkeland]

Can you completely remove that resistor and measure it with your meter?

[canonken]

It is out, it reads 475k.  Hmmmmmmm........

I really cranked away on those joints and not sure why it didn't work.

Am I safe to do a temporary reassembly with the resistor tacked across 10U and 11U to see if that works?

[Paul Birkeland]

I would just put it back down there and really reflow those joints.

[canonken]

Unfortunately, the resistor is now broken, one lead has come off.  Yikes, and this is the worst possible location for trying to get the new one in.  Honestly not sure I can get it back in from the tube side and might try it from the other side.

I'll e-mail and order a new one. 

Thanks,

Ken

[canonken]

Also, even though I need a new one - is there ANY other possible cause (the big cap between 2 and 10) to rule out - or is it only possible the issue is at the 475K cap between 10 and 11?