Solder Gauge ?

El Tel · 3143

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Offline El Tel

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on: September 07, 2021, 01:23:47 AM
Hi Everyone

Could you give a newbie a bit of advice please, I'd like to ask what gauge Solder is generally best for most of the work on the Moreplay ?

Thanks



Offline oguinn

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Reply #1 on: September 07, 2021, 02:05:41 AM
I use 0.8mm. The thicker stuff was too difficult for me to work with.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline Chris H

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Reply #2 on: September 07, 2021, 06:14:19 AM
Hi Terry,

I use 0.8mm (0.032" in old money).
Leaded Rosin core.
In the UK from here:

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/solder/cardas-quad-eutectic-solder.html

A bit pricey at £25 if only using for one job.

For smaller amount when first starting out I bought Weller 1mm on Amazon.
They only seem to have 1.5mm at the moment but you can get 1mm 100g on a certain auction site for £12 which will do the job.

All with Lead!





Offline El Tel

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Reply #3 on: September 07, 2021, 11:17:44 PM
Thank you for the info on the size of the Solder, one more question though, sorry !! What is the best temperature for the Solder iron to be set at ?



Offline Chris H

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Reply #4 on: September 08, 2021, 12:10:50 AM
Assuming you are using leaded solder, 370-400.
Too hot and higher risk of damage though most components are quite tough.
Too cold and have to apply heat for longer so its a balance.
Also consider size of the tip, size of connection and solder gauge.
Very small contact point means less surface area for transfer of heat and if large connection or solder gauge means longer contact time.

It's really something to practice where it doesn't matter until you get a feel for it.
I had all the same questions when I started (left unasked), and no amount of instruction will tell you more than those first few attempts.
Just remember to look for the solder flowing into the joint. If after 5 seconds nothing is melting, either contact is not good or iron too cold.
You shouldn't need hotter than 400. 




Offline El Tel

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Reply #5 on: September 08, 2021, 12:27:11 AM
A wealth of information as usual  Chris, thanks so much !!
I'm going to get hold of as many electrical components as I can and have a good old practice before I make a start,  fingers crossed 🤞



Offline debk

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Reply #6 on: September 08, 2021, 12:44:53 AM
I use a hakko soldering station at around 400C or 750F

Debra K

Eros 2Phono amp
BeePre2, Psvane ACME 300b
Kaiju, Linlai Elite  300b
Monamour 2a3 amps various tubes
Sota Sapphire, Pete Riggle Woody Tonearm, Kiseki Purpleheart Cartridge
Rega P6 Ania Pro cartridge
Roon Nucleus
MHDT Labs Orchid DAC
Jager speakers


Offline Deluk

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Reply #7 on: September 08, 2021, 12:58:13 AM
The Cardas solder is excellent. Buying the big reel is the most economical but for a few £/$ you can get shorter lengths 3.5/5m from eBay. 3.5m will build a Crack with some left over. Depends on how much kit making you intend to do in the future. The big reel will last the average person many years!



Offline Chris H

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Reply #8 on: September 08, 2021, 02:11:40 AM
Whoops. Should have made clear it was 400c, not 400f.
My default temp now.



Offline El Tel

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Reply #9 on: September 15, 2021, 01:18:28 AM
Thanks Chris and Deluk

I'm thinking of making my own chassis plate out of copper, using the original one as a template, do you think it would be ok to use copper ?



Offline oguinn

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Reply #10 on: September 15, 2021, 02:43:11 AM
It might sag. Not sure what the strength would be but could be a problem.

Jameson O'Guinn

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Main System: Schiit Bifrost MB, Rega Planar 6 with Exact cartridge, Eros 2, BeePre, Kaiju/Stereomour II, Jagers, Mainline

Desktop System: Crack with Speedball


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #11 on: September 15, 2021, 04:15:28 AM
1/8" copper should be just fine, but you'll need a different IEC module to fit.  0.10" copper would be best, but I'm not sure you'd be able to find it.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline El Tel

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Reply #12 on: September 15, 2021, 05:29:07 AM
Hi Paul and thank you.

You say that 0.10" would be best, which is 2.54 mm I think, I can find 2.5 mm would that be OK?



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #13 on: September 15, 2021, 06:01:53 AM
I can find 2.5 mm would that be OK?
Since I haven't done exactly what you're doing, I certainly don't want to be responsible for what might go wrong!

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Chris H

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Reply #14 on: September 15, 2021, 06:10:44 AM
Why not just paint the aluminium one with a metallic copper paint?
There are loads of options.
I admit very few actually pass for real copper but good attractive results, hammered or smooth, are possible.
And if you don't like the result, you can always strip it off and start again.
I would suggest this route first as you will be dealing with a known quantity in terms of chassis strength, especially once it gets hot.