Crack LED issue

barnstead · 2870

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Offline barnstead

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Reply #15 on: April 05, 2022, 01:58:51 PM
Thanks Paul. I will do that. Appreciate the guidance.



Offline Drew1d

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Reply #16 on: April 06, 2022, 07:23:29 AM
This is a simple vid on how I would check the diode and tube socket.  (not tube, as I said in the video)

Drew Peterson from Westchester


Offline barnstead

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Reply #17 on: April 09, 2022, 04:05:43 AM
Thanks Drew, I missed your video earlier, but unfortunately no diode setting on my multimeter.

I did get the new socket in and installed it. But now the A8 LED won't light. Voltage measurements still look good.



Offline barnstead

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Reply #18 on: April 09, 2022, 04:14:08 AM
And here's the picture of the rewired socket.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #19 on: April 09, 2022, 05:40:23 AM
What are your current voltages?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline barnstead

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Reply #20 on: April 09, 2022, 06:04:46 AM
1. 73.5
2. 173.2
3. 0
4.172.5
5. 81.5

6. 0
7. 101.7
8. 0
9. 107.0
10. 0



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: April 09, 2022, 07:10:22 AM
Those are working voltages.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Drew1d

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Reply #22 on: April 09, 2022, 03:30:45 PM
I'm uncertain if you're still having the problem, the last thing you said was the other one isn't lighting, but the subject says the issue is resolved.

So, diodes are like one way streets right?  And when electricity is running through it, it lights up.  Now, I don't have a lot of experience with LEDs, but I would say that a bad diode would conduct electricity both ways. 

If it was hooked up backwards for example, I wouldn't expect it to light up.  (unless blown, though....I've never tried it.) I would expect that to be the most common error, although the picture looks right.

The other not lighting up problems would be from electricity not running through it, like,
- one side is not connected
- something internal to the piece is no longer connected

Assuming that the tube is fine, and it's the same one as before.  They are "keyed" so you can only put that in one type of way.  If you were using the same LEDs, and moved one to the other side when replacing the socket, then I would say there is probably some internal break in it.

Let's say that you got all new parts.  I mean...it's possible that you got two bum parts, either the sockets or LEDs, but that seems unlikely.   

I would take like a AA battery, and clip or tape a wire to each side of it.  Now, with those two wires, touch the positive side (the nipple side) to the pin of the socket, and the negative side to the center of the socket, did it light up?  Do the same to the other LED, does it light up?

 

Drew Peterson from Westchester


Offline barnstead

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Reply #23 on: April 10, 2022, 03:07:05 AM
Paul, by current voltages do you mean the wall voltage? It's 120.4 volts. If not I may need a bit more guidance.

Not sure how this got marked resolved, it's still unresolved. Drew, can confirm both LEDs are functional, they were tested before I attached them to the new socket.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #24 on: April 10, 2022, 04:04:47 AM
The voltages you posted are correct and consistent with a working amplifier, I didn't notice that you said the A3 LED wasn't lighting up.  What DC voltage do you see at A3 now?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline barnstead

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Reply #25 on: April 10, 2022, 04:34:01 AM
So right now it's the A8 LED that won't light. Before it was the A3 LED that didn't light (and A8 worked), I then installed the replacement socket and LEDs and now A3 does light up but A8 does not. Now I'm seeing 1.59 volts at A3 and 1.38 at A8.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #26 on: April 10, 2022, 04:42:50 AM
Reflow the joint at A5 and add a little extra solder.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline barnstead

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Reply #27 on: April 10, 2022, 05:12:06 AM
Reflowed and added solder to A5 but no luck.



Offline Drew1d

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Reply #28 on: April 10, 2022, 05:58:25 AM
OK dude it can only be so many things. I think that you need to check the LED while it’s in the circuit not before. Try the battery test with the LED and see if it lights up. ( make sure the amp is unplugged and discharged ). If it lights up also check the LED with the tube plugged in. Perhaps  when the pins wiggle when the tube is plugged in, it is breaking its connection.  If that still lights up take the tube out and jam the wire into the socket and test.  If that lights up replace the tube.  Test the working side also to make sure your testing methods are sound. Is it possible that it is lighting up and the room is too bright?  Does the amplifier work at all, or just one side? ( use crappy headphones to check, and not in your ears).

Not killing yourself, but you could test the voltage of the pins where each each led connects, while the amp is on. They should be similar and only a few volts. Being extremely careful, because the high voltage pins are next to it. Like, alligator clip before the amp is on, and turning the amp on/off by plugging it into the wall outlet.  Black side to ground, red side to pin.  I do the left hand in pocket, negative black side of the meter touching the metal chassis, and the red probe carefully touching the pin. Test one led then the other, same as above. But danger is my middle name, and I don’t recommend that to anyone not experienced.

Drew Peterson from Westchester


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #29 on: April 10, 2022, 06:01:04 AM
Reflow terminals 4 and 5, both upper and lower.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man