Crackling and static in the right channel [resolved]

[Cowwe]

On my stock crack I have recently had this issue where the right channel makes some loud static and crackling noises. It may go away if I remove and reinsert the power tube or switch it with a different one, but every tube gives me this problem now (even the stock 6080 that used to work fine).
Moving the tube around while the amp is on changes this noise for the better or worse. It doesn't always happen, but when it does it's so loud that I have to turn my Crack off.
Is it safe to assume that I might need to reheat some joints in the power tube side?

[Paul Birkeland]

Yes, I would reflow the joints in the amp (other than those where the LEDs attach and the power switch).

[Cowwe]

As a general suggestion, if the noise does change a lot, coming and going when I move the power tube, is it an indication that the problem might be in that tube's socket? Or it could also be any other solder joint?

[Cowwe]

I have tried reheating the joints in the tube socket that might have been less than ideal but it hasn't fixed my issue. I keep having loud static and crackling only in the right channel, no matter what tube I try on.
I have checked voltages and everything measures within the standards.
Before yesterday I have had this problem occasionally, but removing/switching power tubes usually made it go away.
Yesterday I have installed the 2 diodes as ground break to shield from usb noise, and it did work perfectly at first.
Later in the night and today the noise does not go away no matter what I do, and it's so loud that the amplifier is unusable.
I know it has to be a mistake I made somewhere, but it feels so disheartening to keep having so many problems with my kit after putting in all the effort that I could..
I have tried messing with the cables but that did not do anything.
I am going to post some pictures. Please let me know if you have any idea what else I can do.
https://imgur.com/a/z68PjJd

[Cowwe]

Here is the modification with the diodes. To me the joints look well covered in solder and pretty clean. Plus, I used the amp for a couple hours right after installing them and everything worked perfectly.
https://imgur.com/a/7aKU7dQ

[Cowwe]

I have been testing things out a little more:
Just now I could hear the same static coming and going a bit more quietly, but then this happened:
After a minute it looked like the tubes' glow got a little fainter but quickly regained strength.
One more minute after that my Crack just turned off and won't turn on again.

[Cowwe]

I have switched the first tube with a second and now the amp turns on again, with the noise in the right channel remaining.
Switched second and first around again and it lights up again. I really don't understand anymore.

[Cowwe]

One more report: I have tried the chopstick test and tapped every solder joint in my amp, and couldn't notice any reaction in the intermittent buzzing.
Tapping the chassis or the tubes also doesn't seem to bring any reaction.

[Paul Birkeland]

You are either using lead free solder or a cold iron.  If you're using lead free solder, get some leaded solder.  If you're using leaded solder, turn the iron all the way up.

The solder joints back by the power switch would be of very minimal concern if you are rocking the 6080 and that's making noise.  Perhaps you could take some more build photos of the rest of the amp and post them.

[Cowwe]

I am using 60% leaded solder, as was reccommended. I also tried keeping my iron set to maximum, or close to it, during most of the process.
Here are some pictures. Please let me know if you want to see anything more closely.
https://imgur.com/a/4gpyDsY

[Paul Birkeland]

10L could use more solder.  It would also be good to see the octal socket itself.

[Cowwe]

Here are some close ups on the socket. https://imgur.com/a/tR906FF
I'm going to look into 10L.
Looking closer I'm thinking 21L might need some solder too (the last picture).
I'm going to take a break for today (damn you timezones), but thank you for the support until now. Earlier today I was really despairing.

[Mucker]

No despair necessary. Bottlehead support ranks right up there with the very best you will find anywhere. QFT.

[Paul Birkeland]

What you can do is to plug the cheapest headphones you have into the Crack (they can be low impedance headphones, that's OK), then poke around the circuit with a wooden chopstick while the amp is running to see if you can set the noise off.  This is what I do when I have a noise issue that I'm having a hard time tracking down.

[Cowwe]

Unfortunately as I reported yesterday I have already tried tapping away with a chopstick while listening for reactions in the sound, but I couldn't tell if there was any change.