Modifying case and layout?

[bundee1]

new guy here with a question about modifying the case and board. id like to place the volume and input selector switches on the front and all of the rca jacks on the back of a 6 x 6 x 4 hammond case. all of the batteries and tubes would go on the top. id like a more traditional form because of shelf space. do you think I could cut the board to fit the top of the case and use the other pieces to trace holes on the front and back of the case. I have a dremel and a drill. would this design compromise the sound or function of the quickie?

Would I need a bigger case or other tools?

[bundee1]

I would even take the wooden case bottlehead sells if its easier to work with. I was just thinking about using the parts from the fiberglass board as stencils instead of leaving holes all over the top.

[Paul Birkeland]

You will have a very difficult time and possibly create a dangerous situation by cutting the acrylic with a dremel.  You certainly can use a Hammond box in the manner you describe, and you can still stencil the hole patterns onto the steel with a pencil through the acrylic, I just wouldn't cut the plate up.  Since there is no power transformer to worry about, you shouldn't have any compromise in sonics, but you will probably need more wire than the kit came with. 

In order to fabricate all the holes you will need:

1/8" drill bit
1/4" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
5/8" drill bit (probably a forstner is a good choice here)

Using the 1/8" bit as a pilot for the other holes is probably a good idea, and to make the holes for the RCA jacks line up well, consider a marking tool or at least a piece of graph paper temporarily affixed to the metal case to act as a drilling guide.

[bundee1]

would it be easier getting the wooden case from you and modding from there?

[Paul Birkeland]

No, if you have access to a drill press and the appropriate bits, this machining is pretty easy.  The wood base will probably be a little too deep for you to easily build the circuit portion and wire in the RCA jacks/volume pot.  The 2" deep Hammond box is a good option.

-Paul

[bundee1]

2 more questions:
what are the dimensions of the acrylic board?
Would adding dynamat (www.dynamat.com) to the metal chassis help with the tube microphonics?

[Paul Birkeland]

The chassis is 6" x 10".

If you want to help with microphonics in a metal Hammond box, I would recommend mass loading and isolation.  Consider adding the Dynamat where you can, but also get some very soft rubber feet to put on the bottom of the enclosure.  The only microphonics I am generally concerned about killing are those that migrate from the floor up to the tubes (speaker and footstep feedback).  You can control this well with mass and some rubber. 

[bundee1]

Alright Im not as brave as I thought I was. I think Im only going to mod the input and output jacks and put them on the back of the case. Im going to go with the Hammond. Ill keep everything else on top. As soon as I get my kit. Ill keep you guys posted on the progress.

[bundee1]

Getting closer to D-Day. Would this Radio Shack wire do the job or should I look for a different gauge and type from parts express?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049745

or

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-074

Thanks for the help.

[Paul Birkeland]

I wouldn't use either.  You will have a very hard time assembling the kit if you use stranded wire.  I know Radio Shack has some solid core hookup wire, you might try looking for that instead.

[bundee1]

2 more questions:
Is this wire better?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049743

and

Will the Quickie with the PJCCS fit in the Hammond 1" deep case mentioned in the sales copy (1444-15)?

[arveedub]

Cheaper hookup wire frequently has soft insulation that melts quickly. The insulation peels back & it's pretty messy.

My personal favorite for hookup wire is cat5 or cat6 computer cable. Nice copper solid core & the jackets are built to be flame resistant. Strip off the outer case & you have four twisted pairs (eight wires total). The stuff makes great interconnects to boot.

You can get cable pretty much anywhere (radio shack, home depot, lowes, etc).

[bundee1]

Why would it melt? From the soldering or current flow? Are the 4 strands form Cat5 insulated when theyre stripped?
Thanks for your patience.

[davet]

The plenum Cat5 wire is Teflon clad solid core wire. It is a far better grade of wire than the hookup wire sold by Radio Shack.

The "plenum Cat5" wire is Teflon clad while regular Cat5 is not. The feel of the Teflon insulation is slick or waxy when you drag the individual wires between your fingers. Another way is to heat the wire. non-Teflon clad wire wire will melt away from the flame/heat; while Teflon will not.

Cat5 is made up of 4 twisted pairs of unshielded 24-gauge wire. So if you buy a length of Cat5 cable take in to consideration that there are multiple lengths of wire in the bundle. A foot of plenum Cat5 at the big box home centers in the USA cost less than a half-dollar per foot.

Two wires (1-twisted pair) is equivalent to an 18-gauge wire. A twisted pair should be all that is required for your project.

Stripping Teflon clad wire can be problematic, because of the slickness of the insulation. I found practice with a sharp knife or razor blade works better than most wire strippers.

[bundee1]

Will single strands of the 24 gauge work as well?