My Crack Build

lior.amsalem · 23104

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Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #60 on: February 13, 2012, 09:35:48 AM
Finally got the volume knob i've ordered from ebay.
check the pics!
link again:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63914773@N02/sets/72157628389850851/



Offline porcupunctis

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Reply #61 on: February 13, 2012, 10:03:56 AM
Dang! that is one knurly knob!  Really awesome, where did you find that thing?

Randall Massey
Teacher of Mathematics
Lifetime audio-electronics junkie


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #62 on: February 13, 2012, 09:09:13 PM



Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #63 on: February 14, 2012, 02:46:57 AM
Can someone sale me a Triad C7X choke? mouser wants 40$ to order processing before shipping costs.. too much.

If someone has one spare he's willing to sale, please contact me...



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #64 on: February 14, 2012, 03:00:26 AM
I bought mine from Allied for much less.

http://www.alliedelec.com/



Offline Lar

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Reply #65 on: February 14, 2012, 05:40:09 PM
Can someone sale me a Triad C7X choke? mouser wants 40$ to order processing before shipping costs.. too much.

If someone has one spare he's willing to sale, please contact me...

I just checked Mouser and there on for $12.82.  http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/C-7X/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuMS2dUaCDnDB57UyZo4e84
« Last Edit: February 14, 2012, 05:42:26 PM by Lar »

Larry V


Offline BNAL

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Reply #66 on: February 14, 2012, 05:48:13 PM
Don't forget to purchase standoffs.

Brad Nalitt
Iron Upgraded S.E.X. Amp 2.0
Foreplay III
Quickie w/PJCCS
Eros Phono
Blumenstein Orca Speakers, Baby Benthic Subs
S.E.X.y Speakers W/FT17H Horn Tweeters
Thorens TD 125 MkII W/ Shure M97xE JICO SAS Stylus


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #67 on: February 14, 2012, 06:21:51 PM
Hi Lar,
You're right that's the price on Mouser, but they want 40$ handling something probably cause I'm in Israel and that's their cost on international handling.
It's just seems too much for me :)
That's why I've ask for help here in the first place.

LA



Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #68 on: February 14, 2012, 07:03:44 PM
The rating, 10 henries at 90mA at 270 ohms, is a fairly common specification. Outside the US, you may find other brands that are more readily available. Ten years ago there were some special construction advantages to the C7-X, but since then the version that is available is pretty standard.

The most important rating is the current, it should be at least 90mA. Second is the resistance; I think anything from 150 to 400 ohms is probably good enough. Least important is the inductance - anything greater than 4 henries will probably work pretty well. (More henries are usually better, of course.)

Shipping of heavy iron parts between continents is always going to add some cost. You may not have an option if you need one of our custom power transformer designs for 240v operation, but standard parts like power supply filter chokes will always be less expensive if they are made closer to home. Many of our Australian customers are familiar with this issue as well as out European, Mideast, and Asian customers!

Paul Joppa


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #69 on: February 21, 2012, 06:26:35 AM
updated photos with my tubes collection so far...
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7204%2F6917111319_f04d728ef8.jpg&hash=40a8b499ae134da762b8a12eb9243be0314f2970)

Also finally found the way to integrate the images from Flickr!

So, on the first raw, driver tubes, from left to right: Tung-Sol 12au7, RCA 12bh7a, Mullard ECC82, RCA 12au7a "clear top".
The second raw, power tubes, for now: RCA 6as7g, stock GE 6080.

The combination I'm using now is the 6as7g & 12bh7a which I find to be bass heavy.
2nd setup is 6as7g & ECC82. - cleaner and airer sound.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 07:00:03 AM by lior.amsalem »



Offline BNAL

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Reply #70 on: February 21, 2012, 09:15:17 AM
That's a cool picture. It is fun roling tubes, because I find it is such an easy way to change the sound of an amp.

Brad Nalitt
Iron Upgraded S.E.X. Amp 2.0
Foreplay III
Quickie w/PJCCS
Eros Phono
Blumenstein Orca Speakers, Baby Benthic Subs
S.E.X.y Speakers W/FT17H Horn Tweeters
Thorens TD 125 MkII W/ Shure M97xE JICO SAS Stylus


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #71 on: February 25, 2012, 07:15:12 AM
OK, at the end I've ordered the triad choke from http://www.alliedelec.com/. Thanks Grainger49!

What's the bypass caps value that everyone is using? will Solen 2.2uF 400V MKP Film Capacitor be good enough?

LA



Offline Laudanum

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Reply #72 on: February 25, 2012, 08:23:56 AM
OK, at the end I've ordered the triad choke from http://www.alliedelec.com/. Thanks Grainger49!

What's the bypass caps value that everyone is using? will Solen 2.2uF 400V MKP Film Capacitor be good enough?

LA

Bypass for the last PS cap?   I think it's a matter of experimentation.  No fixed rule.  There was a recent thread where a member commented that he didnt like the regular MKP's there and that he used, I believe, a .01 or .1uf Audiocap theta.  Personally, I didnt hear any difference at all with a very low value cap.  I tried small Audiocap Thetas, Dayton Film and Foil and a couple other general low value MKP caps and and didnt hear a difference until I used a higher value cap.  In my case it was first a Panasonic 2.0 or 2.2uf MKP cap which was all I had at the time.  It was pretty subtle but noticeable and I think that it cleaned up the high end just a hair.  I have just swapped that out to a Mundorf MKP 2.2uf a few days ago.  If it's any better than the Panasonic, I can't say with any confidence that I can hear it.   Based on what I tried, I think a Solen, Axon, Mundorf or any decent MKP cap in the 2.2uf range would probably be a benefit. Again, pretty subtle but inexpensive and easy to implement.   A teflon or a higher end cap may even help further but I havent tried it.  In fact, I think Grainger likes the Russian teflon caps for PS bypass in general (he doesnt have a Crack amp) and lots of other applications. 

Desmond G.


Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #73 on: March 19, 2012, 12:12:37 PM
Installed the Triad Choke today:
(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm7.staticflickr.com%2F6117%2F6998023971_26938c9050.jpg&hash=87ffee5b6470908b6936d876556952bbe348e2b7)

Is it possible that I get better separation and clarity or is it my ears dreaming?



Offline lior.amsalem

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Reply #74 on: March 24, 2012, 10:21:37 PM
Looking into building my own cables for my headphones: HD600 and HD25
And also an interconnect cable for the crack.
I've already ordered wires, techflex, plug, etc.
the wire I've choose is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120868369561?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2642wt_1185

I've planning to shield the interconnect wire with a copper braid. so my question is where do I connect it to?
1. Is the crack ground a virtual one? meaning I can connect the shield to the chassis (real ground) and it'll be separated from the signal?
2. just connect it to the signal (-) ground on one side only?
3. connect it both ends as the (-) signal?
4. leave it alone you don't need it.

Thanks,
Lior