Resistance Check Questions

[networkn]

How about the wires that leave B3/B6?

  Oops, B6 connected to 10U not 9U as it's supposed to be. I feel pretty stupid now.

[Paul Birkeland]

Good stuff, remeasure 6 and 10 after the correction and let us know if the voltages settle.

[Doc B.]

  Oops, B6 connected to 10U not 9U as it's supposed to be. I feel pretty stupid now.

Nope, not at all. Everyone makes mistakes. My philosophy is don't make a mistake, never learn s**t. And I have the track record  (and enough metal parts in my body - somewhere around 20 or 21 not counting fillings and crowns) to prove that I practice what I preach! The only people who should feel stupid are the ones who have a problem with their kit assembly and don't ask for some support here. Congrats on sorting it out!

[networkn]

  Oops, B6 connected to 10U not 9U as it's supposed to be. I feel pretty stupid now.

Nope, not at all. Everyone makes mistakes. My philosophy is don't make a mistake, never learn s**t. And I have the track record  (and enough metal parts in my body - somewhere around 20 or 21 not counting fillings and crowns) to prove that I practice what I preach! The only people who should feel stupid are the ones who have a problem with their kit assembly and don't ask for some support here. Congrats on sorting it out!

Thanks. Well everything was going swimmingly, the resistance checks were much closer to what I expected and I was all the way to A8 and that wasn't right, then I noticed there was no light from that LED (Connected to A8).

I think I must have shorted it accidentally perhaps?

6 and 10 are still giving me (identical) unexpected results. They should be Zero and they are ranging constantly between 30-40V by the looks.

Looking around I see a few people talking about accidentally shorting the A8 LED is that likely? Is there a way to test?

Not sure if I can source that locally, confirming this is the model number? HLMP-6000

[Paul Birkeland]

If the LED on A8 isn't lighting up, how is the voltage at terminal 1? (It should be high)


Eileen can send you a replacement HLMP-6000 if you burned one, they tend not to short.

-PB

[networkn]

If the LED on A8 isn't lighting up, how is the voltage at terminal 1? (It should be high)


Eileen can send you a replacement HLMP-6000 if you burned one, they tend not to short.

-PB

Yup Terminal 1 is now at 140v not the 90 it was earlier in my tests.

I'll see if I can source one locally.

[Paul Birkeland]

If your meter has a diode checker, you can check the LED.  Sometimes the striped end doesn't solder all that well on the center lug of the 9 pin socket.

You won't find the HLMP-6000 in most hobby electronic stores, it is kind of an unusual LED.

[networkn]

If your meter has a diode checker, you can check the LED.  Sometimes the striped end doesn't solder all that well on the center lug of the 9 pin socket.

You won't find the HLMP-6000 in most hobby electronic stores, it is kind of an unusual LED.

Hmm pity! Is there a substitute I could consider that might be more easily sourced without the delay of shipping replacements from the US to NZ?

[networkn]

If your meter has a diode checker, you can check the LED.  Sometimes the striped end doesn't solder all that well on the center lug of the 9 pin socket.

You won't find the HLMP-6000 in most hobby electronic stores, it is kind of an unusual LED.

Hmm pity! Is there a substitute I could consider that might be more easily sourced without the delay of shipping replacements from the US to NZ?

Perhaps for an extra cost BH could sell a $10 kit that contains spares and recommend it to international buyers at the time of their initial purchase, of the most commonly damaged or faulty components (I broke this I believe so I am not suggesting otherwise).

[Paul Birkeland]

Perhaps for an extra cost BH could sell a $10 kit that contains spares and recommend it to international buyers at the time of their initial purchase, of the most commonly damaged or faulty components (I broke this I believe so I am not suggesting otherwise).

We think offering free replacements works a little better, most of the time these things hold up pretty well.

A 475 ohm 1/8 watt resistor will work in place of the HLMP-6000 in the Crack circuit. (470 Ohm is OK too)

[networkn]

Perhaps for an extra cost BH could sell a $10 kit that contains spares and recommend it to international buyers at the time of their initial purchase, of the most commonly damaged or faulty components (I broke this I believe so I am not suggesting otherwise).

We think offering free replacements works a little better, most of the time these things hold up pretty well.

A 475 ohm 1/8 watt resistor will work in place of the HLMP-6000 in the Crack circuit. (470 Ohm is OK too)

Ok what about this?

http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/p/visible-leds/1934746/

It was suggested by an electronics savvy friend of mine as a possible replacement. LED would suit me better than a resistor as it's nice to be able to see if it's actually working.

Also I can find locally a 470ohm 1/4 watt I presume that isn't close enough?

Also a diode stops current flowing the wrong way too I presume, is that a concern with a resistor in place?

[Paul Joppa]

The HLMP-6000 is about the last "standard red" LED still in production. Modern red LEDs are brighter and not as deep a red, both of which cause it to drop (slightly) more voltage. You can certainly try another red LED - see if you can find one that is NOT "high-intensity". Monitor the terminal 1 voltage; if it's not too high then what you have will work. Even if it's a bit out of spec, it will work while the replacement wends its way across the ocean ...

[networkn]

Well I have a resistor I'll solder tonight and hope like crazy that's the last of the issues.

[networkn]

Well I have a resistor I'll solder tonight and hope like crazy that's the last of the issues.

Hi There!

I have posted my final voltage checks, I am really only wanting to check that 6 and 10 are ok being variable between 15-40mV

1) 90 | 84
2) 170 | 161
3) 0 | 0
4) 170 | 160
5) 90 | 82
6) Wildly going all over the place around 14-40MV
7) 100 | 103.9
 0 | 0
9) 100 | 103.9
10) 0 | 14-40MV
11) 0 | 0
12) 0 | 0
13) 170 | 160
14) 0 | 0
15) 185 | 182
20) 0 | 0
21) 206 | 204
a1) 90 | 80
a2) 0 | 0
a3) 1.5 | 1.5
a4) 0 | 0
a5) 0 | 0
a6) 90 | 84
A7) 0 | 0
a8) 1.5 | 1.6
a9) 0 | 0

b1) 90 | 84
b2) 170 | 160
b3) 100 | 104
b4) 90 | 81
b5) 170 | 160
b6) 100 | 104
b7) 0 | 0
b8) 0 | 0

Thanks for all your help.

[Paul Birkeland]

You're good to go.

14-40mV is 0.014-0.040V, which is nice and low.