is there an easy way to sum the channels for mono?

denti alligator · 7977

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Online denti alligator

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on: January 04, 2013, 01:22:58 PM
I ask only because I got some mono records recently and with my AT cartridge they sound horrible. With my Nagaoka MP-110 they sound fine. I'm trying to figure out if my AT cartridge is damaged, or if it simply reacts strangely to the mono.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


4krow

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Reply #1 on: January 04, 2013, 01:57:46 PM
Wouldn't it be great if that were a mental task? The easy way would be to use a 'y' cable to input of your amp.



Online denti alligator

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Reply #2 on: January 04, 2013, 02:06:42 PM
So, just a Y cable into another Y cable?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #3 on: January 04, 2013, 02:20:11 PM
Are you sure the cartridge connections are correctly phased? Mono would make a reversed phase more obvious.

Paul Joppa


Online denti alligator

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Reply #4 on: January 04, 2013, 02:31:47 PM
Yes, I doubled checked. But I will try it yet again to be sure. Would the Y-cable method for summing the channels work?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #5 on: January 04, 2013, 06:18:43 PM
Would the Y-cable method for summing the channels work?

Yup.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Zimmer64

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Reply #6 on: January 04, 2013, 09:10:45 PM
Hi there,

As far as I remember you can also just put a short bridge cable between the left and right output of the center taps of Quickie's volume pot.

Michael
« Last Edit: January 04, 2013, 09:14:25 PM by Zimmer64 »

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Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: January 05, 2013, 01:46:35 AM
That is what I did to get mono for break in on the Orcas, more on that later.  It allows the least sound to escape in my situation.

You use one with two females into a male to sum the two channels.  Plug that male into another Y adapter that has one female back to two males.



Online denti alligator

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Reply #8 on: January 05, 2013, 02:47:46 AM
Thanks, guys. Now if this really is the problem (and I'm not home until Sunday to check) then how could I make a device to switch back and forth between stereo and mono from the Seduction?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Online denti alligator

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Reply #9 on: January 09, 2013, 01:40:45 PM
Mono definitely sounds better with the Y cables summing the channels.

How could I build a switch into my Seduction that would sum the channels for me?
« Last Edit: January 09, 2013, 01:44:27 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #10 on: January 09, 2013, 03:51:47 PM
Mono definitely sounds better with the Y cables summing the channels.

How could I build a switch into my Seduction that would sum the channels for me?
A switch that connects T26 to T36 will do the job without disturbing any of the other important relationships. Looks to me like the space between the two output jacks is a good place.

Paul Joppa


Online denti alligator

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Reply #11 on: January 09, 2013, 04:02:23 PM
Cool, great. I'm a total idiot, though, so I'll need specific directions. What kind of switch do I buy and how to I implement it? What I'd like it to be able to switch back and forth between stereo and mono. Thanks in advance!
« Last Edit: January 09, 2013, 04:16:19 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Online denti alligator

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Reply #12 on: January 10, 2013, 11:21:44 AM
I'm assuming something like this
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-350
would work. But how do I wire it? Help appreciated!

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #13 on: January 10, 2013, 11:42:36 AM
Sam,

You need a DPST or DPST switch.  That one is SPST.  I can give you detailed instructions on wiring it in.

This one is DPDT with center off:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-518

Maybe one of these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-538

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-508
« Last Edit: January 10, 2013, 11:44:55 AM by Grainger49 »



Online denti alligator

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Reply #14 on: January 10, 2013, 04:07:19 PM
Thanks, Grainger. I'll order one of those last two and let you know when I'm ready to wire it. I appreciate your help.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable