Completed sex kit: No sound from right channel

mpent · 16334

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #30 on: May 22, 2013, 05:25:37 AM
Ok, so after installing the C4S upgrade I have noticed that I am having the same problem again with the right channel...the sound output issue.  Since I thought I rectified it last, I have not messed with the RCA connections but in completing the upgrade I disconnected the RCA cables and obviously reinstalled thereafter.  I do get sound, but if I touch the cord connected to the jack, sound will drop and I have to manipulate the cord inserted into the right channel to obtain sound again.  My wife's response to this is the obvious....leave it alone and stop messing with it.  I had thought I rectified the issue by touching up the solder joint but apparently that did not completely cure the problem.  Should I be troubleshooting elsewhere?

Michael


Online Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750
Reply #31 on: May 22, 2013, 08:30:27 AM
Should I be troubleshooting elsewhere?

Nope, just confirm that the cable isn't the issue (switch channels at the SEX amp), then perhaps consider replacing the jack or checking for metal burrs that are making your short.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #32 on: May 29, 2013, 03:29:05 PM
Argh! It appears that I have a faulty jack. After resoldering the connection 2x and rewiring the jack after that didn't work, I inspected the jack comparing it to the other and I'm guessing that it is defective in that the base of the jack where the center pin protrudes...there is no seal around the pin. The working jack has a small white ring which what I think to be the defective jack is missing. Also, peering inside the connection port to where the RCA cable connects, doesn't look the same...looks perhaps corroded if that's possible. It also grabs the cable pretty tight whereas the working jack has a smooth insertion and release.

Michael

Michael


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #33 on: June 03, 2013, 06:09:54 PM
So I got the replacement RCA jack today. Was sure this would be the fix but unfortunately it was not. Replaced jack and still no sound from right channel. I then replaced the whole wiring scheme from right input jack to volume pot and still...nothing.

Went through voltages and some values have changed. Those that are off are:

B1- 135.5
A5- upper terminal reads 2.117 while lower terminal reads 77.1

I am at a loss at this point. Having the same overall issue as before. Right channel, with volume all the way up, sound output is barely existent and scratchy. Can anyone help?

Michael


Online Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750
Reply #34 on: June 03, 2013, 07:22:59 PM
If B1 is 135.5, then 19 should also be 135.5.

If 19 is not 135.5, but 0 instead, pull the 220 Ohm carbon comp from 19 to B1 and replace it with a piece of wire.

-PB
« Last Edit: June 03, 2013, 08:02:20 PM by Caucasian Blackplate »

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Joppa

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 5833
Reply #35 on: June 03, 2013, 07:31:46 PM
There is only one B5 terminal. I guess you mean the upper and lower holes in the terminal? If they read different voltages, then something is not connected - i.e. not soldered well. Since the plate load resistor is soldered first, it's probably in the lower hole, and it reads 77 volts, within spec - it's probably OK. However, the coupling cap between stages (0.1uF) apparently reads near zero, indicating that it is not soldered well to the terminal. That would mean that it cannot carry signal to the second, power stage - hence low volume, no bass, and likely an intermittent (scratchy) contact.

 If the terminal seems to have too much solder on it, remove the solder (either the wire braid stuff or a solder-sucker) and start over with clean parts. But if it looks short on solder, you can just make sure the wire AND the terminal are both hot enough to melt solder before removing the iron, by touching the solder to the terminal and again to the wire, melting a bit each time. The solder bits should then flow together and you'll have a nice joint.

Of course I may have mis-interpreted the post - words are a poor substitute for actually seeing the thing!

Paul Joppa


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #36 on: June 04, 2013, 02:35:32 AM
Ok, I just switched unit back on to double check voltage. B1 was 135 and 19 was 150, then the 220ohm carbon comp connecting the terminals sizzled and fell apart.

Paul, I was referring to terminal A5 with the reading 2.117. B5 reading was 64.

As such, I am assuming I need to replace the 220ohm resistor and troubleshoot terminal A5 as per Paul's instructions.

Can anyone speculate how/why this is happening? I know this is a long thread but I am not understanding how I went from all voltages within spec with a proper functioning unit to this? The lingering issue has been the sound output from right channel so I guess the unit has not really been properly functioning per say. Paul, PB...can you please read through this thread and perhaps clue me in????

Michael


Online Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750
Reply #37 on: June 04, 2013, 04:02:39 AM
The 220 Ohm carbon composition resistors are a little delicate.  Replace the sizzled one with a piece of wire and let us know if that solves your problems.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #38 on: June 04, 2013, 09:04:46 AM
I replaced the 220 ohm resistor throughout.  At B1 and 19 I got readings in the 60s before it blew again. Replaced with piece of wire and getting about the same readings.

Michael


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #39 on: June 04, 2013, 09:08:58 AM
The LED at position D2 on the B side of the board went out too.

Michael


Online Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750
Reply #40 on: June 04, 2013, 10:53:19 AM
Woah, pull the C4S boards and put the plate load resistors in.  It's really important to have a working kit before installing the upgrade.

When you say "it blew", what blew? How did it blow?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #41 on: June 04, 2013, 11:10:12 AM
The 220 ohm resistor at B1 and 19. When I went to measure the voltage at b1 as soon as I touched te terminal with the red probe the terminal popped with electricity and the resistor blew.

Michael


Offline mpent

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 77
Reply #42 on: June 04, 2013, 02:07:52 PM
I'm kind of discouraged and really confused. The unit was working before i installed the upgrade and after. Voltages were withing range overall including those for the upgrade but clearly that right hannel issue remained an eventually got worse. But i have no clue why it now seems to be falling apart. I will pull the C4s board and replace the resistors that were removed to install the upgrade then repost.

Michael


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9658
    • Bottlehead
Reply #43 on: June 04, 2013, 02:34:10 PM
It sounds to me like a good evening to take off from working on the amp. Coming at it fresh will often give you a new perspective.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Online Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19750
Reply #44 on: June 04, 2013, 02:44:02 PM
Put a piece of wire in place of that 220 Ohm carbon composition resistor, then let us know about your voltages.

If the amp was working pre-C4S, then go ahead and leave that in.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man