What Caps?

mp9 · 16623

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Offline mp9

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on: June 10, 2013, 10:57:04 AM
- so who's played around with designer Caps, which and was it worth it?

Posting as i see Madisound has a few 10uf caps on sale as well as a new affordable Al PP in Oli from Mundorf -

Clarity cap MR $92.00 were $123
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/esa-cap-630vdc/claritycap-10.0-mfd-esa-range-polypropylene-caps/

Clarity cap ESA $19.67 were $29.50
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/esa-cap-630vdc/claritycap-10.0-mfd-esa-range-polypropylene-caps/

New Aluminum Metalized Polypropylene in Oil Mundorf EVO oli $18.75
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-mcap-evo-oil-caps/mundorf-10mfd-evo-oil-capacitor/



Offline adamct

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Reply #1 on: June 10, 2013, 11:48:05 AM
Is it worth it? Depends on what you are looking to get out of it. In my opinion (and I say this as someone who has installed "upgraded" caps in all of my Bottlehead builds), they don't make a huge difference in terms of sound. But they are fun to install, give me piece of mind, make me more attractive and got me elected "coolest guy on the block", so yeah, it was worth it.  ;)

I have installed ClarityCap ESA and SA caps. I haven't tried the MR series, which - based on ClarityCap's marketing materials - don't seem all that different from the ESA series, yet cost a LOT more. I've heard that the new Mundorf caps are huge (I think someone said so here on Bottlehead, but I'm not sure.) For my money, the ESA caps seem like the sweet spot in terms of price vs. (at least theoretical) performance. But everyone sees this stuff differently, so...



Offline mp9

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Reply #2 on: June 10, 2013, 12:08:33 PM
...looks that way, the 10uf is 27mm Long X 40mm Wide



Offline galyons

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Reply #3 on: June 10, 2013, 01:27:07 PM
...looks that way, the 10uf is 27mm Long X 40mm Wide

VPI TNT IV/JMW 3D 12+Benz LP-S>  Eros + Auralic Aries + ANK Dac 4.1 >Eros TH+ Otari MX5050 IIIB2 > BeePre >Paramount 300B 7N7 > EV Sentry IV-A

Thorens TD124/Ortofon RMG-212/SPU >Seduction > Smash^Up> Paramour 45 MQ >K12's


Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #4 on: June 10, 2013, 03:44:31 PM
Ok mp9 here is were you start:
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

Do some diligent study. We all have our opinions. I like the oils. The teflons are to die for, cant afford um. Pick your poison my friend. There is a 'house sound' for sure within certain brands. You tend to get what you pay for, but system synergy is key. The mantra is 'Everything matters'. It truly does. A cap can sound like shit because the cables are not right. Sorry. Its complicated. Thats why you have certain people spending hundreds of thousands on kit. They're not stupid. They would just rather pay someone else to hassle with the details. Us DIY'ers take the 'hassle' on with joy. We live for it, as a matter of fact.. Sorry - had a couple of Scotches. Its a good Monday night!

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.


Offline mp9

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Reply #5 on: June 11, 2013, 06:55:50 AM
 8)



Offline adamct

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Reply #6 on: June 11, 2013, 07:39:51 AM
...looks that way, the 10uf is 27mm Long X 40mm Wide



Offline KevO

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Reply #7 on: June 11, 2013, 08:23:54 AM
Hey folks,

I built my BeePre with Clarity MR. They were a bear to fit, but are quite good. A bit pricey...

I built a SS buffer (Pass B1) a few years ago and used the Clarity SA. Later replaced with Mundorf Supreme. The Mundorf Supreme proved a major upgrade in that circuit over the Clarity SA.

YMMV.

-Kevin



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #8 on: June 11, 2013, 01:38:29 PM
Just so you guys know, 10uF is not a magical value.  If you're feeding an amplifier with high input impedance, you can go quite a bit lower.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #9 on: June 11, 2013, 03:43:51 PM
So my amp has 260k Ohm input impedance. How do we figure out how low we can go?

Aaron Johnson


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #10 on: June 11, 2013, 04:06:45 PM
  http://www.v-cap.com/coupling-capacitor-calculator.php   

Use the amplifier's input impedance as the load, and 5 hz for the - 3dB frequency. Do be aware that you should select the lowest impedance of any amp you have, or the parallel combination of the two lowest input impedances you will load the preamp with.


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #11 on: June 11, 2013, 04:32:26 PM
Best answer is to do what we did - listen to a variety of caps:

Theory 1 - LF cutoff and phase shift suggest that a 5Hz corner is close enough to zero. 260K at 5Hz is 0.12uF.

Theory 2 - The cap reactance should be no more than the output impedance at the lowest hum frequency, to minimize the chance of capacitive hum coupling. 600 ohms at 60Hz is 4.4uF

#3 not-a-theory - we tried a bunch and thought the bass was best at 10uF or more.

YMMV.

Paul Joppa


Offline johnsonad

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Reply #12 on: June 11, 2013, 04:37:59 PM
Interesting!  Thank you PB and PJ.  I've got a pair of 5uF Auricaps I may try against the Auri Caps.  I can measure any change in bass response with the mic.

Aaron Johnson


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #13 on: June 11, 2013, 05:15:28 PM
You won't likely measure anything - but there's a decent chance you will hear something. Just sayin' ...

Paul Joppa


Offline earwaxxer

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Reply #14 on: June 11, 2013, 05:24:52 PM
Yep.. Chance is you will hear something. We most always hear something with changes. The hard part is trying to decide what kind of change it is, and is it worth it. Most of the time, if its not broken, dont fix it.

Eric
Emotiva XPA-2, Magnepan MMG (mod), Quickie (mod), JRiver, Wyrd4sound uLink, Schiit Gungnir, JPS Digital power cord, MIT power cord, JPS Labs ultraconductor wire throughout, HSU sub. powered by Crown.