Top-plate finishing...

[Paul Folbrecht]

The forums here are great but I don't see a lot of threads devoted to cosmetics.

I have a BeePre kit coming and want to finish the top plate in some kind of dark paint.  I have a pair of Parabees with dark grey Hammerite finish I'd love to duplicate.

Is it as simple as a light sanding and then spraying?

Anyone care to offer general tips on painting & finishing of top plates and wood bases?

[aroide]

I'm just finishing up my BeePre wood base.  I didn't try to finish the top plate, though that would look great.  I think getting a finish on brushed aluminum would be hard.  And if you saw any of my model airplanes as a kid, you'd know I don't have patience for fine finish work  .  With wiring and electronics, I'm pretty obsessive... go figure.

For the wood I used a mix of things I researched:
- for gluing the wood, it doesn't take much.  I used tie down straps to hold the pieces tightly together as I saw used by wardsweb.
- some wood pieces could use more sanding, some are baby bottom smooth.  Sand with 220 grit if needed.
- Alder is quite soft and some pieces are softer than others.  Definitely use a pre-stain treatment to fill pores so that stain applies evenly. Note that the minwax product requires you apply stain within 2 hours of the pre-treatment.
- I used minwax oil-based stain rubbed on with a cloth.  On my first coat, the wood soaked up a lot of stain and I didn't leave it 'thick' enough on the wood to have enough stain to soak more for 5 minutes.  A second application after 4 hours did the trick and the wood is a nice english chestnut.
- I used DEFT semi-gloss spray lacquer.  This was recommended by others.  It goes one very nice and easy, and it a true lacquer.  I only have 1 coat so far, so I'm not sure how many I'll need.

Good tips are found on wardsweb.  http://wardsweb.org/audio/seduction/prep/prep.html

Hope this was useful.

[STURMJ]

Light sanding, a good primer (etching primer), and sanding some more, more primer(if needed), will give you a smooth top. Then you can paint it.

[pvannest]

I haven't tried this yet with any Bottle Head gear, but I purchased a powder coating kit from Harbor Freight.   After discounts it was $52.00.    I used it on a door handle for my hot rod, and the results were as good as I have received from regular powder coating shops.   You can get just about any finish you want just by looking on line, and as long as the part can fit in your oven, you are good to go.    Takes about 20 minutes of baking and you have to make sure you are very careful not to touch the item after the initial spray.   If you hang it properly and are careful you will never be able to match the quality with paints.

[KevO]

Paul,

I tried to paint mine and learned I am a hack with a spray can. Gave up and took the plate and tranny caps to the auto body shop. He had paint loaded for a silver Mercedes. Worked for me.

The alder frame was much easier. Lots of sanding, tack off clean, wipe on clear ZAR tung oil finish then steel wool smooth. Repeat finish. Light coat of carnuba  wax.

You will love the BeePre!

Enjoy,
Kevin

[Doc B.]

Nice photo!

[Paul Folbrecht]

That's a nice BeePre.

I found the former suggestion of powder-coating brilliant and found a place nearby that will do that, on any side part.  I plan on taking my top plate there.

[Paul Birkeland]

I tried to paint mine and learned I am a hack with a spray can. Gave up and took the plate and tranny caps to the auto body shop. He had paint loaded for a silver Mercedes. Worked for me.

That's usually the best and most affordable way to get these things done.  I'd imagine if you went to your local Maaco, they would be spraying white, black, and silver at least once a week.  $50 should get you a good quality paint job in a situation like that.

[Paul Folbrecht]

speaking of tranny caps, there's no harm in just unscrewing them to paint? 

[JamieMcC]

I tried to paint mine and learned I am a hack with a spray can. Gave up and took the plate and tranny caps to the auto body shop. He had paint loaded for a silver Mercedes. Worked for me.

That's usually the best and most affordable way to get these things done.  I'd imagine if you went to your local Maaco, they would be spraying white, black, and silver at least once a week.  $50 should get you a good quality paint job in a situation like that.

Plus you will most likely end up with it clear coated and baked in the oven to boot.

[Paul Birkeland]

speaking of tranny caps, there's no harm in just unscrewing them to paint?

It's kind of a paint to get all the hardware back in its place.

There's no harm in cutting a rectangular hole in a piece of cardboard, squishing that down around the transformer stack, then painting the cover and screws.

[Paul Folbrecht]

speaking of tranny caps, there's no harm in just unscrewing them to paint?

It's kind of a paint to get all the hardware back in its place.

There's no harm in cutting a rectangular hole in a piece of cardboard, squishing that down around the transformer stack, then painting the cover and screws.

And then you've got a ruined piece of cardboard with paint on it?  What am I supposed to do with that?

Just kidding.