Rewiring Crack to take ECC32

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Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #15 on: April 06, 2014, 12:51:59 PM
If you are switching DC, you should in principle check the DC voltage rating, not the AC rating. You won't like what you see, most switches are rated for a maximum around 30 volts DC.

Many people pretend they didn't see those limitations, and get away with it for quite a while.  What you can get away with turns out to be very complicated - but the bottom line is that if you exceed ratings, your heirs will not be able to win any wrongful-death lawsuit.  :^)

Paul Joppa


Offline 2wo

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Reply #16 on: April 06, 2014, 04:54:30 PM
Placing the switch underneath is the way go, better insures that no one touches it while the amp is on.

You are looking to switch between 50k and 21k. Get two resistors of 47k, or if you want to get fancy 50k and 39k. Wire the 50k in as the plate resistor and parallel it with the 39k and switch...John   

John S.


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #17 on: April 07, 2014, 05:01:05 AM
While you *could* do this, you'll have to switch the 120V AC power through this switch, and signal carrying connections.

We get away with this in the Quickie because the battery power isn't a source of noise. 


Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #18 on: April 07, 2014, 11:58:51 AM
The R1 resistors on the two small PC boards should be changed to ~450 Ohm resistors.  (470 Ohm should be close enough)

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #19 on: April 07, 2014, 02:27:47 PM
...
1.  Make it physically impossible to throw the switch while it is under load.  This could, perhaps, be achieved by locating the switch on the underside of the chassis plate.
2.  Change the medium by having the switch sealed from air (an SPDT reed relay?)
3.  Use a twelve position switch and wire up just the contacts that are furthest apart
...
This is obsolete now but I'm going to give a technical answer anyway.

1. is a fine idea.

2. reed relays have a gas inside; the way to do this is with a vacuum relay. They are hard to find and expensive.

3. It's the distance of the contacts that must meet and part to make the connection. Any switch that works will have infinitely close distance at some point in time.

4. The usual solution is to be aware of the arcing (and ionization - there are two mechanisms to worry about) and choose a switch whose contacts are so large that their erosion takes many many cycles. Anyone who remembers changing the points on a distributor is familiar with this!

Side story - way back when we were dating, my wife had a Dodge with a high-compression V-8 and a 6-volt battery, with dual paralleled points. It needed new points about every 750 miles (and a quart of oil every 1500). She used to pull the distributor and do the operation on the kitchen table, replacing the distributor the next morning to go to work.

Paul Joppa


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #20 on: April 07, 2014, 05:36:28 PM
Is there any reason why I couldn't switch between two different resistor values in the speed ball?
Sorry, the only answer is "maybe". Any messing with layout invites possible instability in circuits.

Paul Joppa


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: April 07, 2014, 06:54:04 PM
I think you could get away with switching a resistor in parallel with the R1 on the Speedball board, but I've had negative experiences with having long leads on R1's on C4S boards.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #22 on: April 07, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
At this point, it's DIY, some self discovery is involved.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man