Help with Interference issue [resolved]

networkn · 16649

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline NightFlight

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 151
Reply #60 on: June 16, 2014, 05:53:36 PM
After checking your wiring, you might want to attach some sort of open grille / mesh to the bottom of your Crack to prevent little fingers (and big ones) going where they shouldn't.

My son is 5, about to be 6. I simply told him never to touch it, as he could accidentally get a shock and quite possibly die. Explained you have to know what you are doing before you touch it, don't play in this room. Etc.

He gives it a wide birth.  :P



Offline NightFlight

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 151
Reply #61 on: June 16, 2014, 05:58:19 PM
Hi There!

I never have more than one connected at a time.

Any chance that your toslink cable for some reason is 'shielded'?
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Horizon-Professional-Performance-Protection-equipment/dp/B005ELLH0W
The above is not shielded, but there's no call for any metal at all on a toslink cable!

Mine is plastic.. cheap cheap cheap. Sears. $5. Works great.



Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #62 on: June 16, 2014, 05:58:54 PM
My son is 5, about to be 6. I simply told him never to touch it, as he could accidentally get a shock and quite possibly die. Explained you have to know what you are doing before you touch it, don't play in this room. Etc.

He gives it a wide birth.  :P

My SON is completely safe. He is the most sensible kid and always listens and obeys, I've never had him near a single thing in 4 years which I've asked him to avoid. It's my daughter who is 2.5 who is my primary worry. She will SOMETIMES listen, but sometimes isn't the margin of error I'd accept at 240v :)

She is getting a little better, but some days she drives me crazy getting into stuff.




Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #63 on: June 16, 2014, 05:59:23 PM
Any chance that your toslink cable for some reason is 'shielded'?
 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Horizon-Professional-Performance-Protection-equipment/dp/B005ELLH0W
The above is not shielded, but there's no call for any metal at all on a toslink cable!

Mine is plastic.. cheap cheap cheap. Sears. $5. Works great.

I have about 6 of them, I'll try some of the others.



Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #64 on: June 20, 2014, 05:38:27 PM
Okie Dokie. Resistance check has been recompleted after I dropped it.

T1 : 4M
T2: 3M
T3: 0.3ohms
T4: 70K-3.7M
T5: 4-5M
T6: 2.5K
T7: 2.9K
T8: 0 ohms
T9: 2.9k
T10: 2.2K
T12: 0.4ohms
T13: 30M went to 40K then climbed to 270K
T14: 0 ohms
T20: 0.3 ohms
T22: 0.3 ohms
B3: 2.9K
B6: 2.9k
RCA Ground Lug 1 (Black): 0.2ohms
RCA Ground Lug 1: (Red): 93K
RCA Centre Pin 1 (Black): 0.2ohms
RCA Centre Pin 2: (Red): 98k

So the things I wanted to check are:

I did this with the fuse in, but obviously not the power or the tubes, are these results ok ?

RCA results are slightly off 90k but are different? OK ?
Most of the 0 result ones are marginally off, is this ok, or they HAVE to be 0.0 and what should I do if that's the case?
T1 and T2  and T13 OK?

I wanted to do the grounding checks that someone had pasted earlier given the issues I have had with a grounding loop and electrocuting myself (Which I now believe was because I accidentlly touched the IEC and the metal base at the same time.), prior to putting on the power and doing voltage checks.






Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #65 on: June 22, 2014, 01:29:37 AM
I thought they were ok. Proceeded with Voltage checks.

1: 83
2: 161
3: 1.6mV
4: 160
5: 80
6: Variable
7: 105
8: 1mV
9: 104
10: 5mV
11: 2mV
12: 0
13: 162
14: 0
15: 182
20: 0.5mV
21: 202
A1: 80
A2: 1.8mV
A3: 1.5
A4: 1.9mV
A5: 1.9mV
A6: 84
A7: 0.8mV
A8: 1.64
A9: 1.64
B1: 82
B2: 160
B3: 105
B4: 81
B5: 161
B6: 104
B7: 2.1mV
B8: 2.1mV

OK?





Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19757
Reply #66 on: June 22, 2014, 12:39:00 PM
Looks like you have a working amplifier.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #67 on: June 22, 2014, 12:41:35 PM
Looks like you have a working amplifier.

-PB

Thanks. What would be the reason for the low numbers instead of 0 at some of the voltage check points like t12?



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19757
Reply #68 on: June 22, 2014, 01:42:41 PM
5mV is 0.005V, which is pretty close to 0.  This is one of those things that will just vary a bit from meter to meter, as well as from terminal to terminal.

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #69 on: June 23, 2014, 12:57:23 AM
Thanks CB.

So a new development. I now have buzzing which exists whether I have a DAC plugged in at all, and only exists after the headphone is about 75% of the way fully inserted in the jack. It seems to have changed and become louder for a few seconds and then went back to a basic buzz. It seems to vary a fair bit and I can affect it by moving around, but not consistently.


Any ideas?
« Last Edit: June 23, 2014, 12:59:51 AM by networkn »



Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #70 on: June 23, 2014, 10:17:53 PM
Gentle Bump. Sorry guys, you have been so helpful so far, but I just don't know what could be causing the buzzing :)



Offline Paul Birkeland

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 19757
Reply #71 on: June 24, 2014, 04:20:24 AM
So a new development. I now have buzzing which exists whether I have a DAC plugged in at all, and only exists after the headphone is about 75% of the way fully inserted in the jack. It seems to have changed and become louder for a few seconds and then went back to a basic buzz. It seems to vary a fair bit and I can affect it by moving around, but not consistently.

So, the hum does exist with the headphone all the way in?

Is the amp still quiet receiving music from your phone through a 1/8" to RCA cable?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline Doc B.

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
    • Posts: 9660
    • Bottlehead
Reply #72 on: June 24, 2014, 02:31:58 PM
When you say you can vary it a bit by moving around, what is moving - the amp, parts inside the amp, or you? Usually buzz is from a cold solder joint to ground.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #73 on: June 24, 2014, 02:37:07 PM
When you say you can vary it a bit by moving around, what is moving - the amp, parts inside the amp, or you? Usually buzz is from a cold solder joint to ground.


If *I* Move around (Wave my arms or move closer or further from the AMP)  (Amp and everything else except the headphone cable are static). It's very weird.

The noise from the original topic isn't apparent as best I can tell presently.



Offline networkn

  • Full Member
  • ***
    • Posts: 72
Reply #74 on: June 24, 2014, 02:39:47 PM
So, the hum does exist with the headphone all the way in?

Is the amp still quiet receiving music from your phone through a 1/8" to RCA cable?

The Hum Exists with the plug all the way in, but not if it's some of the way out of the plug as best I can tell. (Not sure if you know what I mean but there are stages that the plug will go in). It exists if I remove the RCA Plugs from the Amp completely (As in no source attached.

If there was a cold joint, would this not cause voltage and resistance irregularities?