New Crack Questions

[Atraf]

Crack issues:
1)   Hum problem – when connected to my laptop it’s the strongest and noticeable at 20% volume (when nothing is playing) I know the issue here is with my laptop and I need a DAC.
When there is nothing connected to the crack I still get a hum but it only start at about 70%.
When connected to my iPhone the crack is dead silent all the way.
Considering what you have just read do I have a problem with my crack?
Planning to add a DAC soon Is it ok to assume it will be dead silent same as my iPhone?

2)   After reading  here and there about the Crack a lot people say the Crack is too loud for them and they can't even go after 10 or 12 o'clock and they even need attenuator installed in order to get reasonable volume level, I usually listen at around 70-75% with some recordings I can even reach 100% and its not that high, I just get the feeling it opens up my cans better, especially with high bit rate recordings.
As far as I know I don't have hearing issues, I just like it when the bass shakes my head.
So is my crack too quiet or am I deaf?

3)   Are there any tips for beginners for tube amps?  Like is it ok to leave the amp on all day? Or is it preferable to turn it on/off in every listening session?

4)   Since currently I don't have a DAC and I do have a receiver (Pioneer VSX 521) with a DAC built in I want to try connecting the crack to one of the receiver outputs to use the receiver as a DAC or maybe even a pre-amp?  I have tried several ways I just don't know how to do it (the receiver is connected threw HDMI to my laptop), can you help me?
This is my receiver back:

(https://forum.bottlehead.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.bootic.com%2F_pictures%2F1566684%2Fpioneer-vsx-521-k_1.jpg&hash=4d4df3ac63e3af0b65276e3d5d098a46ddd9ec8b)

I have the Sennheiser HD650, Thanks Ben.

[Paul Birkeland]

1)   Hum problem – when connected to my laptop it’s the strongest and noticeable at 20% volume (when nothing is playing) I know the issue here is with my laptop and I need a DAC.
When there is nothing connected to the crack I still get a hum but it only start at about 70%.
When connected to my iPhone the crack is dead silent all the way.
Considering what you have just read do I have a problem with my crack?
Planning to add a DAC soon Is it ok to assume it will be dead silent same as my iPhone?

Computers are indeed pretty noisy, but generally not laptops.  (Though it's possible)  Using your iPhone instead seems to confirm that the computer is an issue.  Looking for a DAC that isn't USB powered should be just the ticket.

2)   After reading  here and there about the Crack a lot people say the Crack is too loud for them and they can't even go after 10 or 12 o'clock and they even need attenuator installed in order to get reasonable volume level, I usually listen at around 70-75% with some recordings I can even reach 100% and its not that high, I just get the feeling it opens up my cans better, especially with high bit rate recordings.
As far as I know I don't have hearing issues, I just like it when the bass shakes my head.
So is my crack too quiet or am I deaf?

The actual power coming out of the Crack will depend on the headphone impedance and the level coming out of your source.  With a weak source and low impedance headphones, it wouldn't be surprising to need to crank the volume up a bit.

3)   Are there any tips for beginners for tube amps?  Like is it ok to leave the amp on all day? Or is it preferable to turn it on/off in every listening session?

There are advocates of both leaving everything on all the time, as well as shutting down between sessions.

4)   Since currently I don't have a DAC and I do have a receiver (Pioneer VSX 521) with a DAC built in I want to try connecting the crack to one of the receiver outputs to use the receiver as a DAC or maybe even a pre-amp?  I have tried several ways I just don't know how to do it, can you help me?

You can use the tape outputs from that receiver.  If it has a "Direct" button, I would use it while you are using it with your Crack.

-PB

[Atraf]

First of all thanks for the quick response, though I do have a few more questions -

Computers are indeed pretty noisy, but generally not laptops.  (Though it's possible)  Using your iPhone instead seems to confirm that the computer is an issue.  Looking for a DAC that isn't USB powered should be just the ticket.

My crack is currently connected to my laptop threw the 3.5 headphone jack (3.5mm to RCA cable), I thought the problem is with my poor quality laptop sound card, I actually thought a USB DAC will fix that :O, since I don't really have another option besides USB or 3.5mm headphone output jack in my laptop I think I am in a bit of a pickle here :>

The actual power coming out of the Crack will depend on the headphone impedance and the level coming out of your source.  With a weak source and low impedance headphones, it wouldn't be surprising to need to crank the volume up a bit.

I can understand my laptop sound card is a weak source though my headphones are definitely not low impedance (hd650 - 300ohms), does it still fit your description?

You can use the tape outputs from that receiver.  If it has a "Direct" button, I would use it while you are using it with your Crack.

The thing is I want to listen to music from my laptop threw HDMI in order to bypass my laptop sound card, so connecting the crack to the cd/tape rca output jacks won't work since my input can be only one of the HDMI inputs (DVR/BDR, DVD, BD or VIDEO).
I tried using DVR/BDR output RCA's and DVR/BDR HDMI input and still got no sound :\
Your saying my only way is to connect the music source (laptop) via RCA to CD/TAPE IN and then via CD/TAPE OUT connect the Crack?

Thanks again, Ben.

[Paul Birkeland]

I can't comment on your laptop sound card being strong/weak, as I don't have the facilities to measure it properly.  You can play a 60Hz tone through your laptop at max volume, then measure the AC voltage it's putting out.  Most likely, that level will be pretty distorted, but it will give you an idea as to how much output voltage you could expect.

If you want to listen to music through HDMI, your receiver should be able to make a 2.1 signal out of the HDMI digital signal.  If the tape inputs continue to give you trouble, perhaps your receiver has a headphone jack?  Otherwise, there should be a sound mode that's 5 channel stereo, PCM 2.1, stereo, or something like that.  There may also be a button or setting to activate the tape output.  This should be described in great detail in the manual for your receiver.

-PB

[Atraf]

I just read in my receiver manual that there isn't an option to output digital audio through the analog outputs, only analog to analog

I guess I need to hurry up and buy a DAC the hum from my laptop drives my crazy.
Thanks for your help.

[Paul Birkeland]

That's pretty unusual.  So there's no headphone jack?

[Atraf]

there is an headphone jack, but using the headphone jack means I will be using the DAC and AMP of the receiver, I wanted to use only its DAC.

[Paul Birkeland]

It's very unlikely that the output of the DAC in the receiver would be unbuffered.

It is possible that the buffering for the headphone jack and the buffering for the tape output are shared. 

[mcandmar]

The Tape or Pre outs should work, i have an earlier VSA unit and any audio input selected gets routed to the outputs, even in the built in DAC.

[Atraf]

Audio signals that are input through the digital terminal will not be output from the analog terminal.

This is a quote from my receiver manual :\
The only way I managed to hear any sound was while the Crack was connected to the CD-R/Tape output and the input was my iPhone through the CD or CD-R/Tape input RCA's.
Maybe I am missing something, I don't know.

[mcandmar]

One thing to check, on mine when you select between the different sources like VCR/DVD/TV/CD/Tape etc it switches the analog inputs on the back and sends them to the amplifier, and the pre/tape outs.   For the digital connections Coax/Optical you have to go into the setup and bind them to a function. I.e. you have to tell it the Coax digital is for the TV player, or the Optical input is for the DVD function for it to play from those sources and direct them to the pre outs..

[Atraf]

I do have this option for each mode CD,VIDEO,DVD,CD-R/TAPE ... there are input select for each but the one like CD or
CD-R/TAPE only include Coax and Optical 1 and Optical 2 not HDMI.. since my laptop is connected via HDMI its doesn't help :\

Thanks for helping anyway guys, I think i will get a DAC as soon as I can, need to decide between the modi or ODAC I assume both of them will do the trick muting the hum away..

[mcandmar]

I do have this option for each mode CD,VIDEO,DVD,CD-R/TAPE ... there are input select for each but the one like CD or
CD-R/TAPE only include Coax and Optical 1 and Optical 2 not HDMI.. since my laptop is connected via HDMI its doesn't help :\

Thanks for helping anyway guys, I think i will get a DAC as soon as I can, need to decide between the modi or ODAC I assume both of them will do the trick muting the hum away..

Must me a HDMI quirk.  From memory most HDMI implementations for blueray playback require a secure path from source to playback which may have something to do with it.

The Modi and ODAC are the least likely to cure the hum as both of them are powered directly from the USB bus.   Out of interest does the noise go away if you run the laptop from battery only?

[Atraf]

No the hum doesn't go away when its on battery only..
Why are you guys so sure the hum won't go away with a usb powered DAC?
Isn't the problem in my sound card 3.5 mm jack? If i use a usb DAC i bypass my laptop sound card and therefor bypass the hum no ? :\

The hum actually increase and decrease when I play with the connection at the 3.5mm jack :O

[mcandmar]

Ohh.  In that case it sounds like a faulty headphone socket is your problem. People usually get hum and noise issues from laptops due to the power adapters, i just assumed that was your issue.

ODAC vs Modi is really down to preference as there is little difference between them.  The ESS chip in the ODAC is known to be a little bit brighter, and a tad grainy in the top end where as the Modi is known to be just a little bit more laid back and smoother.  The difference is subtle though, and your choice of amp and headphones will have more variation to be honest.  The Modi is a nicer looking unit IMO.