220v Paramount voltages (and the HLMP-6000 leds)

Mach2 · 5071

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Offline Mach2

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on: September 20, 2014, 05:11:27 PM
I'm about to finish my 220v Paramount build. One thing puzzles me is that I still have two HLMP-6000 leds left and I can't find where they're belong to from the manual. The checklist lists 10 leds in total but I only uses 8 of them on the two PC boards. Am I missing something?
« Last Edit: September 21, 2014, 10:41:54 PM by Mach2 »

PH


Offline MisterM

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Reply #1 on: September 21, 2014, 02:57:38 AM
Look at the "Nine Pin Socket Wiring" (page 51 in my manual). The 300B version uses a LM 431 Shunt regulator between pins B3 and center lug. The 2A3 version uses an LED beween these same lugs. If you built the 300B version you should have two LED's left over.  Hope this helps.

Frank Horvatich


Offline Mach2

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Reply #2 on: September 21, 2014, 04:18:17 AM
Thanks! I checked my manual and it looks like my version and yours are not the same. In the version I have the "Nine Pin Socket Wiring" for both the 300b and 2A3 cases are the same and no LED was used...

Edit: I found a thread in the Paramount section and the two LEDs are indeed belong to a 2A3 version. Strange that I read all the 2A3 parts and couldn't find where two LEDs are used. Probably they're belong to an older 2A3 wiring.

By the way, my 300b Paramount build is 220V and I followed PJ's advice to use the 2A3 choke wiring (attached photo). All four LEDs on the C4S board and both tubes are on. Resistance check is fine. All the non * ones are correct, the * ones are slightly off but is similar to an "Doc B approved" set I found here. The voltage readings (AC voltage of 223VAC rate) are mostly good except for a few falling outside of the 10% error.

Terminal             Mine A(B)            Manual
1                      404(407)              440       
5                      64(69)                  71
9                      175(175)             200
10                    0(0)                       0
16                    436(439)               457
17                    0(0)                      0
18                    0(0)                      0
19                    176(175)              200
A1                    72(72)                   74.1
A2                    404(407)               440
A3                    0(0)                      0
A4                    66(68)                   69.2
6V red              2.88(2.93)              3.1 VAC
6V black           2.88(2.93)              3.1 VAC
Kreg A              3.2(3.9)                4.1
Kreg B              7.1(7.8 )               6.3
OA                   300(304)                300
OB                   175(175)               200

So a few questions... before I plug in some music of course.
- The OA starting voltage fluctuated a bit around (and above) 350V a few seconds once I turn the amps on, but settled in at 300V after 10s or so. Is it acceptable?
- Should I be worry about the mismatch Kreg readings (more than 10% error)?
- I adjusted the potentiometer to read 175V at the OB pad, and I thought the reference reading (at OB, and 19?) should be 175V but it is listed as 200V. Am I missing something?
- I didn't do the hum adjustment since it's tricky to do that with the side of the 300b tube. I supposed I can listen to the speaker white noise and do that later without a meter?
« Last Edit: September 23, 2014, 08:28:38 PM by Mach2 »

PH


Offline Mach2

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Reply #3 on: September 23, 2014, 07:27:27 AM
Any help? Not really sure if I want to rewire the choke back to 300b for a "on the edge" stock build with my 220v input...

PH


Offline Doc B.

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Reply #4 on: September 23, 2014, 08:45:00 AM
The extra LEDs are a hangover in the packing list from the previous version of the circuit, i.e, you did indeed get two extras with your kit.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Mach2

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Reply #5 on: September 23, 2014, 03:39:40 PM
The extra LEDs are a hangover in the packing list from the previous version of the circuit, i.e, you did indeed get two extras with your kit.
Thanks! Usually I got nothing left after building a Bottlehead kit previously so the leftover components was a bit of a red flag...

How was my voltage check? Do they look OK enough (especially the ones on the boards) and up to specs?

PH


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #6 on: September 23, 2014, 08:11:02 PM
   .  .  .   How was my voltage check? Do they look OK enough (especially the ones on the boards) and up to specs?

According to all the manuals I have if you are within, plus or minus 15% you pass.  Since I don't have the manual you will have to do some calculations.  Divide what you read by the target in the manual.  If the number calculates more than 15% high or low post only those out of spec.



Offline Mach2

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Reply #7 on: September 23, 2014, 08:25:42 PM

According to all the manuals I have if you are within, plus or minus 15% you pass.  Since I don't have the manual you will have to do some calculations.  Divide what you read by the target in the manual.  If the number calculates more than 15% high or low post only those out of spec.


You're exactly right. Most of them are within the range given my low input of 220V instead of 240V, except the ones on the C4S board which are about 20% or 30% off. I'm a little concerned this time because I don't know what to expect with my 300b build with the 2A3 wiring scheme, and partly I read from a post here from someone with "out of specs" C4S readings due to bad IC components...

PH


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #8 on: September 23, 2014, 09:23:57 PM
Post just those.  Post the expected voltage and your voltage.  The official Bottleheads will take a look when they get to work.



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #9 on: September 24, 2014, 09:17:11 AM
There will be no damage at either 175 or 200V. I have pestered the designers to come to terms on the number. Meantime, enjoy.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Paul Joppa

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Reply #10 on: September 24, 2014, 01:53:53 PM
The correct number is

* 175v for use with 300Bs

* for a 2A3 version, 1/3 of the 2A3 plate voltage (pin A2).

Paul Joppa


Offline Mach2

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Reply #11 on: September 26, 2014, 01:10:38 AM
thanks for all comments! I replaced my faithful S.E.X by the Paramount in my chain (the other components include the Smash and a pair of Orca/Dungeness subs) and then beautiful sound came out... Can't wait until the Paramount and the tubes are settled in.

BeePre is next, and it seems I have to wait a while since I just discovered that my BeePre kit is missing some regulators.

PH