Seduction upgrade suggestions?

rebbi · 7692

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Offline mcandmar

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Reply #15 on: December 17, 2014, 04:48:28 AM
That should work, or wrap them with some some heatshrink..

(http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5316.0;attach=5107;image)

M.McCandless


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #16 on: December 17, 2014, 06:04:53 AM
I have found heat shrink tubing to cover every KK Teflon I have from 0.1uF@200V to 0.47uF@630V.  That last one took a while to find.



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #17 on: December 17, 2014, 10:10:36 AM
Yup, or a big piece of heatshrink.


Paul "PB" Birkeland

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Offline rebbi

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Reply #18 on: December 17, 2014, 11:13:40 AM
I have found heat shrink tubing to cover every KK Teflon I have from 0.1uF@200V to 0.47uF@630V.  That last one took a while to find.

Ah, okay, that's great, and thanks for the photo. I see you have a plastic tie around the cap, presumably to stabilize it physically? How did you do that?

Those caps as you know are enormous... what kind of wire did you use? I'm thinking again of something stiff to help hold it in place...



Offline mcandmar

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Reply #19 on: December 17, 2014, 11:49:06 AM
The tie wrap is looped around the tube socket board to take the weight so the solder joints aren't supporting it all.  Wire is just a piece of thick solid core, thick enough to be rigid so nothing flops around in there.

If the chassis plate is cool enough you could stick some of these on to mount the tie wraps.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=adhesive+tie+wrap+holder&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xadhesive+tie+wrap+base&_nkw=adhesive+tie+wrap+base&_sacat=0

M.McCandless


Offline galyons

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Reply #20 on: December 17, 2014, 11:51:18 AM
I don't like big caps hanging by their leads.  Especially the big, heavy metal cased Russian caps. (and I use a ton of the Russkies!) I use  small rectangles of acrylic sheet  screwed to nylon stand-offs on the socket or strip screws.  Simple. Dirt cheap! This provides a solid mounting surface, (zip tie down), elevates the caps above the circuitry to make troubleshooting far easier.  My experience was that every time I had to move the caps "out of the way", ( or just simply lifting the plate to take a look!), I was running the risk of creating more issues with solder junctions, lead integrity and potential shorting.

I started doing this when I added the C4S upgrade to my  Foreplay.  $h!T on leads all over the place. (Well worth the aggravation though!) Drove me crazy!! Now it is SOP!!

Cheers,
Geary

VPI TNT IV/JMW 3D 12+Benz LP-S>  Eros + Auralic Aries + ANK Dac 4.1 >Eros TH+ Otari MX5050 IIIB2 > BeePre >Paramount 300B 7N7 > EV Sentry IV-A

Thorens TD124/Ortofon RMG-212/SPU >Seduction > Smash^Up> Paramour 45 MQ >K12's


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: December 20, 2014, 08:20:50 AM
^ Sage wisdom in that there post by Geary!

Paul "PB" Birkeland

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Offline rebbi

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Reply #22 on: December 20, 2014, 08:34:53 AM
I don't like big caps hanging by their leads.  Especially the big, heavy metal cased Russian caps. (and I use a ton of the Russkies!) I use  small rectangles of acrylic sheet  screwed to nylon stand-offs on the socket or strip screws.  Simple. Dirt cheap! This provides a solid mounting surface, (zip tie down), elevates the caps above the circuitry to make troubleshooting far easier.  My experience was that every time I had to move the caps "out of the way", ( or just simply lifting the plate to take a look!), I was running the risk of creating more issues with solder junctions, lead integrity and potential shorting.

I started doing this when I added the C4S upgrade to my  Foreplay.  $h!T on leads all over the place. (Well worth the aggravation though!) Drove me crazy!! Now it is SOP!!

Cheers,
Geary

Geary,
Would you happen to have an image of this? I can't really picture what you mean from your verbal description.
Thank you!!