Seduction upgrade suggestions?

rebbi · 7717

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Offline rebbi

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on: December 01, 2014, 02:18:18 PM
Hi,

I was wondering what I might do to max out the potential of my Seduction phono stage. I am still using the original tubes.

Additionally, several years ago, Forum member "mingles" was nice enough to send me a couple of large, Russian capacitors (Teflon?) but I never installed them and I'm not certain where they'd go. They are encased in metal on the outside and seem to have a white, plastic-looking core.

All ideas appreciated.



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #1 on: December 01, 2014, 02:49:16 PM
Yes, you just described a Russian military surplus Teflon cap.  There will be a "0.47" or a "0.1" on the barrel of the Russian cap.  That tells you the position where it will go. 

If they are 0.1 they go between T26 and T29; the other channel is T36 and T39.  If they are 0.47 then they go from terminal T32 and the output RCA jack center conductor; the other channel is T42 and the output RCA jack center conductor.  There should be brown caps in all four positions now.



Offline rebbi

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Reply #2 on: December 01, 2014, 02:55:20 PM
Yes, you just described a Russian military surplus Teflon cap.  There will be a "0.47" or a "0.1" on the barrel of the Russian cap.  That tells you the position where it will go. 

If they are 0.1 they go between T26 and T29; the other channel is T36 and T39.  If they are 0.47 then they go from terminal T32 and the output RCA jack center conductor; the other channel is T42 and the output RCA jack center conductor.  There should be brown caps in all four positions now.


Grainger,

Thanks for the speedy reply!

So, why would someone replace the original caps? Are these supposed to sound better?



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #3 on: December 01, 2014, 02:59:42 PM
I had a 0.1 in my Seduction.  The Teflon caps sound smoother.  The high end is more detailed and open sounding.  Check this 0.1uF Teflon cap:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/product6327.html

They are only $61 each when bought in pairs.



Offline rebbi

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Reply #4 on: December 01, 2014, 03:01:21 PM
I had a 0.1 in my Seduction.  The Teflon caps sound smoother.  The high end is more detailed and open sounding.  Check this 0.1uF Teflon cap:

http://www.partsconnexion.com/product6327.html

They are only $61 each when bought in pairs.


Sounds worth trying, then. And what about the tubes themselves. Worth upgrading?



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #5 on: December 01, 2014, 03:06:25 PM
Oh, yes! !   After a number of years tubes wear out.  I changed two pair in my system last week. 

Here is a thread that gives all tube substitutes for the Seduction:

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=1029.msg7557#msg7557

I use the second one in the list.  Again, Russian military surplus, 6N23P.  Many are on ebay and relatively cheap.



Offline rebbi

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Reply #6 on: December 01, 2014, 03:24:29 PM
Oh, yes! !   After a number of years tubes wear out.  I changed two pair in my system last week. 

Here is a thread that gives all tube substitutes for the Seduction:

http://bottlehead.com/smf/index.php?topic=1029.msg7557#msg7557

I use the second one in the list.  Again, Russian military surplus, 6N23P.  Many are on ebay and relatively cheap.


Very cool. I just looked on eBay and there seem to be lots of people in Russia and the Ukraine eager to sell these tubes. A lot of them are described as "Vokhsod." And they are pretty cheap. Thank you for all the information!!



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #7 on: December 01, 2014, 03:33:45 PM
Do get the '"EV" version.  The date code on them is two numbers, month and year of manufacture.  Try either 60s or 70s if you can get them.  I have sent a message to a number of sellers and they are eager to help you get the decade tubes you want.



Offline rebbi

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Reply #8 on: December 02, 2014, 03:41:29 AM
Do get the '"EV" version.  The date code on them is two numbers, month and year of manufacture.  Try either 60s or 70s if you can get them.  I have sent a message to a number of sellers and they are eager to help you get the decade tubes you want.

Oh, one other question!

It seems as if the leads on those Russian capacitors have oxidized somewhat. Any tips for cleaning them in preparation for installation? I haven't yet had the opportunity to look at the values on them to see where they would go in the Seduction, but your instructions are very clear and I'm sure I will have no trouble figuring out where they go.

Thanks for all your help! I was sorely tempted during the recent Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales to buy the Eros, but even with the 15% discount it's not in my budget right now. :-(



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #9 on: December 02, 2014, 05:44:38 AM
The leads are slivered.  Silver tarnish is as conductive as cleaned silver.  I have never cleaned them before soldering.

On the values, there is a "MKΦ", which is microfarads, after the number you are looking for.  Also, the voltage is designated by "B" as there is no "V" in their alphabet.
« Last Edit: December 02, 2014, 06:34:15 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #10 on: December 02, 2014, 06:06:57 AM
If you buff the leads with some fine steel wool they will be easier to solder.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline rebbi

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Reply #11 on: December 03, 2014, 11:14:30 AM
If you buff the leads with some fine steel wool they will be easier to solder.

Great suggestion, Doc, thanks!!



Offline rebbi

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Reply #12 on: December 12, 2014, 02:37:05 AM
The leads are slivered.  Silver tarnish is as conductive as cleaned silver.  I have never cleaned them before soldering.

On the values, there is a "MKΦ", which is microfarads, after the number you are looking for.  Also, the voltage is designated by "B" as there is no "V" in their alphabet.


Hey Grainger,

I finally had a chance to take a good look at those Russian, Teflon capacitors. They are of the 0.1 µF variety. I'm a little bummed about that because it's on a more crowded part of the board and is going to be a more challenging replacement – there's a lot of stuff to unsolder, but I'm going to try it anyway. Thanks for all your help!



Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #13 on: December 12, 2014, 09:11:12 AM
Be really careful with those Russian caps.  The bodies are conductive, so if they move around and start touching things, well, you know the rest...

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline rebbi

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Reply #14 on: December 17, 2014, 04:30:28 AM
Be really careful with those Russian caps.  The bodies are conductive, so if they move around and start touching things, well, you know the rest...

Can you wrap tape around them to insulate them?