Houston, we have a problem...Naaa, just a typo.

ebag4 · 4437

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Offline ebag4

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on: March 06, 2016, 09:46:44 AM
I started building my Kaiju this weekend.  All of my checks have been good, including the glow tests, until I reached the high voltage test, I am not reading any DC.  I have been going back through my connections and instructions all morning, I just saw this.  Page 38 of the manual tells me to connect the red wire to t9 of PT9 and black to t10, however looking closely at the picture I see that it is wired the opposite.  I don't know what impact this has but I am concerned I have been putting voltage through the 220uF and 100uF caps of the wrong polarity.  Any recommendation is appreciated.  I don't want to put power back on it until I have this issue sorted.

Best,
Ed
« Last Edit: March 06, 2016, 03:12:55 PM by ebag4 »

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Offline Natural Sound

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Reply #1 on: March 06, 2016, 10:00:01 AM
There have been typo's in the manuals before. It happens. But in my experience the photos are always right. I assume this is because the photos are shot from a working unit. But please wait for the official word from Bottlehead HQ before proceeding.



Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #2 on: March 06, 2016, 10:15:44 AM
Yes these wires have been reversed. It is a typo and will be corrected.

This isn't relevant to your problem both for the reason that it would work either way and the fact that this is the heater circuit. It has already been tested (via the 5670 glow test), and confirmed to work. It has no bearing on your high voltage supply and your problem is elsewhere.



Joshua Harris

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Offline ebag4

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Reply #3 on: March 06, 2016, 10:21:48 AM
Thanks Josh.  I will correct and continue to troubleshoot.

Best,
Ed

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Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #4 on: March 06, 2016, 11:43:34 AM
Preamble:
Keep in mind that there is an error somewhere in your high voltage supply. Parts of your amplifier may remain at high voltage, even when unplugged. Proceed with extreme caution.

There was no need to swap the wires. As I stated before, the heaters will work either way. Well they should, but not with the new solder joints apparently (or perhaps swapping strained the wires and one is now broken). Measure resistance between the terminals on the PT and the ones on the socket. This is now a new problem that needs to be solved and is completely unrelated to your high voltage issue.

As for solving the high voltage issue, check the earlier nodes of the power supply to find where it breaks down. Starting closer to the PT, any terminal with a positive capacitor lead should have a positive voltage. Check each node. After unplugging, keep measuring until the voltage has gone down.


Joshua Harris

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Offline ebag4

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Reply #5 on: March 06, 2016, 12:16:47 PM
Thanks Josh, I didn't understand that I could have left the wire swapped from your previous post.

Best,
Ed

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Offline ebag4

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Reply #6 on: March 06, 2016, 12:43:52 PM
Not an open, apparently a short somewhere, I'm blowing fuses.  It has to be something after the glow test.  I have been back through the build and can't locate any mistakes so it must be a stripped wire somewhere, bummer.  I lost a clipped lead off of one of the caps, seems I would be able to see that if it landed in a bad location.

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Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #7 on: March 06, 2016, 12:55:03 PM
OK, well a blown fuse could be caused by many things. One thing could be the inrush current from the first time the capacitors are getting charged.

Try a larger fuse (2A is pretty easy to come by, even in a normal hardware store), testing the power supply as instructed. Be ready to pull the plug immediately if you see or smell something funny, but it might be the fuse rather than a wiring error.

If it's still blowing a larger fuse, then there is definitely a wiring error in the HV supply. Post pictures.

Joshua Harris

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Offline ebag4

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Reply #8 on: March 06, 2016, 01:08:57 PM
That's apparently what it was, tubes glowing again, thanks.  I wish I would have considered that, I'm always leary of using larger than the recommended fuse.

Best,
Ed

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Offline fullheadofnothing

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Reply #9 on: March 06, 2016, 01:16:25 PM
Are the voltages within spec?

Joshua Harris

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Offline ebag4

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Reply #10 on: March 06, 2016, 01:16:43 PM
All DC readings within tolerance.  The caps charging apparently blew the fuse and had me trouble shooting an issue that wasn't there.  Thanks again.

edit, just checked 53u and 65u with the 300b's installed, 74vdc each, looks like we're cooking!

Ed
« Last Edit: March 06, 2016, 01:42:39 PM by ebag4 »

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Offline Doc B.

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Reply #11 on: March 06, 2016, 06:20:35 PM
Yes, they very first startup with brand new caps can cause more inrush than after they have charged once. I don't think it gets discussed much, but I've seen to many times over the years and twice now in the past week.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
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Offline ebag4

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Reply #12 on: March 12, 2016, 11:39:32 AM
I believe we have a typo on the 2nd instruction on page 64, I beleive it should read D8 not D2.  If I'm wrong please let me know.

Best,
Ed

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Offline drewh1

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Reply #13 on: March 12, 2016, 12:08:50 PM
Man, I am glad you are going through this first. I am following your build closely. It is great that you are so attentive to the details.

J-River on Custom built Music Server in Silverstone Case
Ayre QB-9 USB DAC
Kaiju
Stereoumour
Diy Cotton wrapped wire interconnects and speaker cab!es
Green Mountain Audio EOS HDx speakers
Crack with Beyerdynamic T1
Shunyata Diamond Back Power Cable
DIY Sub with Seas L26Roy Driver


Offline ebag4

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Reply #14 on: March 12, 2016, 12:11:40 PM
Thanks Drew, I wouldn't follow too closely, I'm trying to do my driver test but i am blowing fuses.  Nothing obvious as of yet.

Edit;
Not certain what it was but my A socket appeared that the terminal with the diode and the adjacent terminal may have possibly been touching, when I put it back together my voltages came up and no blown fuses.

Best,
Ed
« Last Edit: March 12, 2016, 01:25:05 PM by ebag4 »

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