First Project Necessary Tools & Advanced Suggestions

Grainger49 · 199778

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Offline denti alligator

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Reply #15 on: November 16, 2010, 06:34:13 AM
I'm saving up to get the S.E.X. Will I need all of the tools listed in the first post?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline JC

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Reply #16 on: November 16, 2010, 07:23:41 AM
For the base, you will need wood glue, masking tape, sandpaper and finishing supplies.

For the kit, finishing supplies will largely depend on what parts you may wish to finish.  I usually like to give the chassis plate a couple of coats of something clear, but you may want to do more.  The transformer bell end usually needs some attention with steel wool and some kind of finish, as it is pretty much just plain steel and prone to the usual rust.

To do the assembly and electronics, you will need soldering stuff, a multimeter, and hand tools.  The hand tools list can be as big as you want to make it, if you're a tool hound like I am, but it can also be pretty minimal: Screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, and wire strippers are essential.

You will need a place to work with plenty of light.  It is also nice if your work-place can remain undisturbed between sessions.

Finally, it is always a good idea to have some kind of eye protection when you are working on anything.  Using a diagonal wire cutter can result in pointy little snips of wire shooting out at high velocity, as one example of hazard.  There are others.

Also in the eye department, a magnifier of some sort is pretty much required to identify the smaller parts, and is very useful in inspecting your work.

Again, you may want to add endlessly to your tool supply, if you're like me; I think of something new I'd like almost every time I work on something!  But, you don't need a Sears in your basement to assemble a Bottlehead kit.

Jim C.


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #17 on: November 16, 2010, 07:52:36 AM
In addition to what JC says:

As far as hand tools goes you have to tighten the bolts that hold the transformer to the chassis.  The same thing for the terminal strips.  You need a medium thickness standard screwdriver and something to hold the nut on the bottom of the chassis.  Both needle nose and diagonal cutter pliers are necessary.  You must have something to strip wire.  As a novice you don't want to do that with your pocket knife.

I have split the first post into those tools that are necessary and those that are handy then advanced tools.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2010, 12:17:50 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #18 on: November 16, 2010, 11:41:22 AM
Thanks, guys.

Looks like I can get a variety of digital multimeters for as low as $5. Is there a reason to go with the $100+ Fluke? Are there models or brands to avoid?

(Edit: would this one work for me?)

Do the assembly instructions say how (and with what) to finish the transformer bell end?

I've never assembled anything like this. The closest thing was a computer, but that required no soldering, gluing, etc. Am I going to be over my head? On the main site it says there are only 2 or 3 people Bottlehead trusts to assemble these. If that's the case, aren't I (inexperienced as I am) totally unqualified?
« Last Edit: November 16, 2010, 11:49:07 AM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline JC

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Reply #19 on: November 16, 2010, 12:14:30 PM
And, it's such a nice price, I may have to get one myself for a back-up!  At that price, you can burn up a few without much regret!

As far as the bell end is concerned, I just buffed mine with steel wool, wiped it with Formula 409 to remove any grease from handling, and shot it with the same clear coat I used on the chassis plate.  Alternatively, any primer and paint specified for use on metal will do.  Some people like "Hammertone" type crinkle finishes.

Bottlehead is particular about who builds one of their kits for a customer, because they are going to charge for it and stand behind it.  This does not necessarily make it a difficult task.  The main skills are reading and following instructions, working with hand tools, and soldering.  If you have never soldered before, you may wish to acquire some cheap resistors and terminal strips to practice on first.  Good soldering takes practice, but it is not difficult.

As far as instructions are concerned, if you find one that isn't clear, you need only post a question here on the Forum and chances are that someone will be along shortly to help.

Jim C.


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #20 on: November 16, 2010, 12:40:05 PM
JC, I think you may have misread my OP.  You can get a used Fluke for $80 often under $50.  There is a difference between meters.  Cheap digital meters don't respond well to high resistances.  They are hard to tell if you have the reading you are looking for.  I have helped two Bottleheads find Flukes and they have never questioned a meter reading since. 

I can't tell you about the Vellman.  I have used only 3 meters since 1979, a Simpson and two Flukes.  I still have both Flukes.

The Bottlehead manuals have a picture for just about every step and full page shots of the assembled top plate and finished product.  Any mistakes in the SEX manual were ironed out years ago.   

Thanks, guys.

Looks like I can get a variety of digital multimeters for as low as $5. Is there a reason to go with the $100+ Fluke? Are there models or brands to avoid?  .  .  .  .   
« Last Edit: February 01, 2013, 04:15:14 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #21 on: November 20, 2010, 03:19:03 AM
Does it matter what kind of solder I use?

Would this work?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #22 on: November 20, 2010, 03:34:26 AM
Solder does matter.  Lead can cause headaches, really bad headaches.  And there are all kinds of designer solders out there.  

As for the linked solder, I might find the 1mm size a little bulky (I'm not sure the size of what I have).  I use thinner solder.  But at that price, and if you are lucky enough to have a Harbor Freight in your town, go there and you will find most of the hand tools you need.  The small needle nose, side cutters and wire strippers are what I have in mind immediately.  There are better soldering stations than they sell.  And maybe the 1mm solder will work fine.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2012, 03:57:30 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline denti alligator

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Reply #23 on: November 20, 2010, 03:41:08 AM
So as long as it's lead-less I'm good? Less than 1mm.

I was just going to get a cheap soldering iron ($4.99 at their site), with mini stand, and use a household sponge.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Grainger49

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Reply #24 on: November 20, 2010, 03:55:26 AM
The 1 mm may be fine.  I prefer using a thin solder.  Right now I'm using leaded solder and a small fan to blow it out of my face.  Not to mention that the big magnifying glass I use makes it impossible for the smoke to float straight up.

This is the kind of light I use.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2010, 12:21:46 AM by Grainger49 »



Offline 2wo

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Reply #25 on: November 21, 2010, 05:34:53 AM
I do not recommend lead free solder, it's just harder to use. Radio Shack has plain old rosin core electronic solder, a little thick but will work fine.

Don't stick it in your mouth and wash your hands when you're done...John   

John S.


Offline JC

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Reply #26 on: November 21, 2010, 06:27:57 AM
Lead-free solders can be difficult to work with.  I use it for plumbing, but mostly because that's all that's readily available for plumbing these days.

For electronic work, I generally use a "eutectic" solder, which has a ~ 63/37 ratio.  When cooling, this solder goes directly from the liquid state to the solid state, skipping that "semi-solid" state that other ratios have.  I suspect that movement during that semi-solid (when it appears that the solder has hardened, but it really hasn't) state has been responsible for many a "cold" joint.

Having said that, I would certainly use standard 60/40 from Radio Shack, and often have.  You just have to be aware of its cooling characteristics, as with all 60/40s.


Jim C.


Offline Yoder

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Reply #27 on: November 23, 2010, 06:53:23 AM
Bausch and Lomb Magna Visors are great. I got mine from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Magna-Visor-Bausch-Lomb-Lenses/dp/B003E6OJ9U  If you sign up for their credit card they give you a $40 credit, and so I got mine for about $5 after shipping was added. Even for the full price they are a great buy.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2011, 10:22:47 AM by Yoder »



Offline InfernoSTi

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Reply #28 on: November 23, 2010, 04:07:25 PM
This is a great thread...I wish I had read it before my Stereomour build!  Especially on the 63/37 solder...that would have been an easy call. 

I built the amp with the following tools: medium small screwdriver, wire cutters, wire striper, swiss army knife (blade and scissors), hemostats (best tool for wiring EVER!!!), x2 glasses, solder, soldering station, tape measure, and a digital multimeter from Radio Shack.  That is almost nothing!  And none of it fancy.  I do keep a shrink wrap multipack handy.

For the case, wood glue, painters tape, strap style box clamp, sander. I will hand rub some stain with a shop rag (and then sand and reapply) and then do the same with some miniwax polyseal satin eventually!

The one other thing I did which I highly recommend if you don't have a dedicated work bench: I used a 2'x2' 1/2 plywood sheet as a work surface and I kept my parts in a CoolWhip container and my tools in a clear plastic box where I could grab them handy but not have them wander.  This let me set up on the kitchen table and then put everything away quickly. It makes a nice, organized area to work. 

Did I mention that you have to get the hemostats (I got mine from Radio Shack)?

John

John Kessel
Hawthorne Audio AMT K2 Reference Speakers
Paramount 300B w/MQ All Nickel Iron,  Mundorf S/G 5.5 uF,  and  Vcap Teflon .1 uF
Auralic Taurus Preamp/Auralic Vega DAC/Auralic Aries Streamer
and lots of room treatments!


Offline kgoss

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Reply #29 on: November 26, 2010, 06:56:06 AM
I've only built one kit so far, but one thing that I did when building my S.E.X kit made things go smoothly so it might help others.  My wife likes to scrapbook so she has these plastic boxes with lots of small compartments in them.  Its the kind of thing that I'd use for flies (fishing) but it makes a great thing to organize the kit parts.
I went through the bag of parts that made up my kit, sorting the resistors and everything into separate piles according to the color bands.  Then I went through each pile with my meter making sure they were all the same value.  I put each pile into one of the compartments in the clear plastic box along with a little piece of paper identifying the parts.  It makes the pre-build parts inventory easier, and then when building the kit I didn't have to sort through parts to get what I needed.  When it was time to quit for the day all I had to do was close the box and put it away until the next time I got to work.

Ken

Ken Goss