Blumenstein Ultra Fi

[tdogzthmn]

It would be interesting to have an active variant of the Orca/Marlin that also uses a Hypex plate amps.  Then you could have an option of a fully powerd speaker system from Blumenstein.

I use a NAD D3020 with my Orcas and really like what I'm hearing from this little Class D amp.
Makes for a nice contrast to the rather inefficient class A tube amps I also enjoy.

[Clark B.]

Hey guys, thanks for the thread bump!

Thomas, you've inspired me to write a blog post about this topic!  The NAD 3020 is great, as are some other Class D amps.  I'm still very pleased with the Bottlehead 300B Paramount SET amps I use in my reference system.  I also use cheap Class AB solid state in other systems, like in the woodshop.

 Mainly, I would never want to limit my own choices in my own amplifier library down to just one design, though I have a few in my collection that I could really live with and enjoy - and these employ a variety of technologies.  I am probably similar to many audiophiles in this regard.

I am not sure if I will ever make amplifiers, because that is a difficult task for an expert to handle.  Just like speaker design is often best left handled to other experts.

Oh - and the stack of outboard Amp, Benthic, and Orca, Marlin, or Triton sitting on top is a very listenable arrangement, at between about a 24 inch high platform, depending upon the use of a component plinth below this stack.

We have been listening to these and have shipped out some of these benthic towers with Tritons and Orcas so far, with very positive feedback coming in about the sound of this new dual mono Benthic Bass Unit/ Dual Mono Outboard Subwoofer Amplifier speaker stand system.  Each individual component in the stack is vibration isolated from the room and one another via our new low durometer (super soft) urethane feet (appropriated from exposure to urethane technologies in the skateboarding industry.)  The whole tower can sway slightly, but it all sticks together and self recovers because of the feet.  When its all stacked up, and you touch it, and knock on each cabinet, it is a very cool effect to see the cumulative component isolation going on.

Furthermore, if you employ one of our Seamount component plinths underneath each Benthic/Outboard tower, then the transmission of unwanted vibrations into the room is further reduced.  Important cable lengths like the Anchor Chains are kept short as well. 

One more extreme, but very good sounding example of an arrangement - and slightly taller stand option is to use two Benthic Bass units per side, and all of that driven by a single outboard subwoofer amplifier located close to the stereo amplifier.  The subwoofer stacks are then hooked up with with one of our new, cleanly wired Octopus Cabling harnesses. We like this arrangement alot, as it is very easy to tune to a room, works with a huge variety of loudspeakers as stand/subwoofers, as the summing to mono for the bass can sometimes help compensate for room anomalies like asymmetrical rooms that typically result in asymmetrical bass response at the listening area.

-Clark

[Clark B.]

Hi Folks! I have another quick announcement! 

We are about to release a few exciting new audio products and photos in our webstore as our expanded shop has begun to keep pace with our order board for the new design platform that we have been rolling out this year. 

The website is always lagging a little behind the needs of the woodshop.  So the photo rollout of our new design platform has been necessarily gradual to give space to the clients actually getting these first new systems shipping under the 2016 design platform designation (with wood branded fronts).

Most recently released (this week) were the Hammerhead Binding Posts, which can be fitted to any prior generation Blumenstein speaker for an improvement to the sound.  They are also applicable to DIY audio projects of many sorts as well.  And right now, as an introductory price, a whole set of these new Hammerhead Binding Posts will run you only $36.  Did I mention that we use the same wire and solder as is now used in the Main sheet cables?  Because its what's on the inside that counts.

http://www.blumensteinaudio.com/all-products/hammerhead-binding-post-red

In the previous post, I discussed the benefits of passive subwoofers, and how we no longer wished to produce them.  So - as an available upgrade for the majority of our previous subwoofer clients, you are now able to turn your previous generation active Dungeness subwoofer (should you desire) into a passive subwoofer by removing the subwoofer amplifier, hammering in a set of these binding posts into 1/4 inch holes you can drill into wall of the sealed internal amplifier cavity, and then just connect the new lead wires to the existing (typically nicely broken in) subwoofer driver you've got, and then run that modified passive subwoofer with one of our newer, more powerful Outboard Subwoofer Amplifiers - for just a few hundred bucks in total cost for the sonic/convenience upgrade.  Later, if the funds become available to purchase a new Benthic Bass Unit to replace your modified-to-passive Dungeness, then you already own one of our new Outboard amps to use with it.

-Clark

[Clark B.]

Quick update:  We have released an universal upgrade kit for pre-2016 Orcas!

Check it out!!!

http://www.blumensteinaudio.com/all-products/universal-depth-of-field-enhancement-kit-for-pre-2016-orcas

Best,

Clark

[tdogzthmn]

Does anyone here (besides Clark) own a pair of Thrashers/Tritons?  I'll be getting a pair and trying to decide if I should use my SEX 2.1 or Stereomour to drive them.  I like the added ability for headphones with the SEX but understand the Stereomour will likely offer better detail and bass.

[caffeinator]

Hi tdogzthmn,

I own a pair of Thrashers...they have mostly been doing yeoman service in my garage system, driven by a variety of amps/receivers such as Sansui 1000A, a variety of Dynaco combos and lately a Scott 233B integrated.

I love 'em, but can't comment about how they'd fare connected to SEX or other lower powered SET.

[Horatio]

I have a set of thrashers and regularly have them hooked up to my Stereomour MK1 and they sound great!

[tfrei]

I have a set of Orcas and a (now discontinued, I think) matching orca passive subwoofer with a separate matching amplifier.  I like the sound a lot.  I'm waiting for the upgraded wire and binding kits for both that Clark mentioned earlier. 

I'm looking for a general approach to tuning the subwoofer.  The plate amplifier has two main adjustments: 1) a crossover threshold adjustment and 2) a gain adjustment.  Currently I play around with both until I find something that sounds halfway decent. But I'm just really shooting in the dark.  Is there a more scientific (or logical ) method to going about this?

[Doc B.]

Well, there is a certain sensitivity and frequency response that an Orca will have. And one could use the low frequency roll off of the Orca as a starting point for setting the lowpass filter on the sub amp. Clark certainly has good ideas on how the Orca and sub interact and can offer a great starting point.

But there are two things that make this more complex.

Firstly the low pass frequency hashmarks on most sub amps are only approximate. That can be gotten around by using a measurement mic and some measurement software. If you want higher precision that can help you see where the amp is really cutting off the highs.

Secondly, the acoustics of your room are very influential in the range where the speaker crosses over to the sub, enough so that an arbitrary level setting and even the low pass frequency setting that you might determine in an anechoic environment could be pretty useless in actual practice. Once again, a modest measurement setup can help you find room modes that might mess up the response and let you not only set levels and frequencies but also experiment with moving subs around to get the best response.

Of course even after doing that you gotta listen to the sucker and make the final decision about the sound. If you want a really simple way to take a first stab at this just run a frequency response sweep thru the system and listen for bass boom and bass suckouts from your listening position.

[tfrei]

I suspected that things would be at least a little complicated.  I'm looking at some android apps now at keuwl.com that might work with my phone.  I'm going to start playing around with this and maybe report back with what I find.  I imagine that a lot of bottlehead users are experimenting with subwoofers to supplement the bottom end with their low watt, full range speaker arrangements.

I really appreciate the effort that contributors on this forum ( including Doc B. ) make in responding to newbie questions like this. Thanks!

[tdogzthmn]

Part of my reasoning about jumping up to the Tritons vs the Orcas was to simply the overall system and see if I can get away from trying to integrate a sub.

My current room layout outs the sub in an awkward spot and Im also concious of the bass level since I live in an apartment.

My hope is that the Triton will be still able to fill in the low end witout the deep rumble that most easily transmitted through walls and floors.

[starkiller]

How much do the Orca's weigh by the way?

[fullheadofnothing]

According to Wikipedia, females weigh between 3000 and 4000kg and males weigh over 6000kg.

[Clark B.]

How much do the Orca's weigh by the way?

Its 8 lbs a piece.  16lbs a pair.

[tdogzthmn]

I wanted to share some initial experiences I've had with my new pair of Tritons being driven by my Stereomour 2a3.  I've played them with a mix of music and movies/tv since they are the centerpiece of my living room system.

Right from the start the Tritons threw out a larger image than the Orcas. The added sense of scale helps with the realism of the music to come across as if it were live.  The added body is also very apperant as the 8" drivers are engaging a lot more air than the little 3" Fostex.

I'm currently using Apple Music streamed through an Apple TV and Meridian Direct DAC for most music.  This allows for me to pull up all the music I could want and try with the Tritons.  So far they seem to handle everything with ease. 

It's also noticeable that they will need time to break in. By comparison the Orcs have a more delicate and refined sound when playing the right music.  The Orcas have an amazing level of finess which is still addicting in its own right.  In the meantime I'm happy to listen as the Tritons evolve with use.

On a side note I've been very impressed with the combo of Apple Music and the Meridian Direct DAC as a source.  Even though Apple Music is only streaming at 256kbs. It sounds remarkably clean and clear. Compared to my Vinyl system playing the same albums I don't feel like the digital version leaves me underwhelmed sonically.