Frugel Horn 3's

M42 · 19915

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Offline M42

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on: June 19, 2014, 05:33:02 AM
Hi All,

I have received my Frugel Horn 3 flatpacks and Alpair 7en speakers from Planet 10. I will be driving them with my Stereomour and Reduction phono amp. The kit is beautifully executed...all panels being cnc machined. I'm eager to get these together and audition them. I have decided to use the less efficient Alpairs, but from all accounts it's a superior driver to the Fostex units. I'm presently searching for wood veneer for the build. Not having any experience in veneering can anyone tell me whether the panels should be veneered first, then assembled, or once the cabinets are compete? I will post some additional photos as I make progress.

Jeff

Jeff Hullin

Stereomour(2A3), Eros, Crack/Speedball, Thorens TD160 MKII, Grace F9E, Sennheiser HD600's, Frugelhorn 3's, DIY 8" Subs.

If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #1 on: June 19, 2014, 05:48:03 AM

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline thdewitt

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Reply #2 on: June 19, 2014, 07:03:11 AM
I am not an expert by any means, but I used to watch a great woodworking show on PBS.  The guy always veneered first and then used a router to clean up the edges.

Eros Telefunken EF806S and Telefunken E88CC
BeePre JJ 300B
Paramount 1.1 EH 300B
Stereomour JJ 2a3-40 and Mullard CV4024
Crack Tung Sol 5998  Mullard CV 4003
Thorens TD 160 Super (Vinyl Nirvana)
Blumenstein Orca Deluxe/Dungenus Sub
Blumenstein Mako Floorstanders Chocolate Bamboo


Offline kgoss

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Reply #3 on: June 19, 2014, 08:14:42 AM
Either way works, it really just depends on where you want the veneer edge to be. If you veneer first they will be on the edge of each piece. If you veneer after the cabinet is assembled the edges will be on the cabinet edges.

Ken Goss


Offline galyons

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Reply #4 on: June 19, 2014, 09:14:48 AM
I'll be interested in hearing your feedback.  I tried these drivers with my Paramours in an OB.  Just didn't work for me.  The 2A3 Paramours sounded strangled, the 45 Paramour 2's were worse. I also tried a Golden Tube Audio Se40, (PSE 6L6GC's rated at 40 watts), still no brass ring.

Cheers,
Geary

VPI TNT IV/JMW 3D 12+Benz LP-S>  Eros + Auralic Aries + ANK Dac 4.1 >Eros TH+ Otari MX5050 IIIB2 > BeePre >Paramount 300B 7N7 > EV Sentry IV-A

Thorens TD124/Ortofon RMG-212/SPU >Seduction > Smash^Up> Paramour 45 MQ >K12's


kevner21

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Reply #5 on: June 19, 2014, 09:52:37 AM
they should be veneered already



Offline M42

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Reply #6 on: June 19, 2014, 09:56:07 AM
Yes...Baltic birch, but I thought I'd try something a little more exotic and to finish the exposed ply edges.

Jeff Hullin

Stereomour(2A3), Eros, Crack/Speedball, Thorens TD160 MKII, Grace F9E, Sennheiser HD600's, Frugelhorn 3's, DIY 8" Subs.

If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.


Offline tdogzthmn

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Reply #7 on: June 19, 2014, 01:20:49 PM
Can I ask how much the kit runs?  I've been interested in an affordable DIY speaker build and have heard good things about the frugal horns.  On the other hand I play a lot of rock/metal/electronic music and feel like these might not have the punch required for those genres.



Offline M42

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Reply #8 on: June 19, 2014, 10:36:18 PM
The kit, enabled Alpair drivers, shipping and taxes came to $750.00 USD. Shipping amounted to $75.00. The flatpacks are $290.00 and the drivers $290.00. I paid ten percent less for the drivers as I ordered them at the same time as the flatpacks.

I have never heard these speakers, but have purchased them after extensive research on the web, (Planet 10's site and diyAudio.com, builder reviews etc.). I listen to most types of music with the exception of country. From what I have read the Alpair driver will produce "substantially" more bass than the Fostex 126(en) driver, however at the cost of some efficiency. The Fostex driver has also been described as more "shouty??" than the Alpair driver. Further, the Alpairs don't seem to be as demanding as far as being corner loaded.

I claim no golden ear, but I will post my impressions of the speakers once I have allowed for a couple of hundred hours for break-in time.

Jeff

Jeff Hullin

Stereomour(2A3), Eros, Crack/Speedball, Thorens TD160 MKII, Grace F9E, Sennheiser HD600's, Frugelhorn 3's, DIY 8" Subs.

If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.


Offline Guy Boisvert

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Reply #9 on: July 01, 2014, 11:32:04 PM
I have put together several cabinets, Bottlehead bases, using veneer. Unless you have a fancy vacuum press, veneer is very difficult to apply using dedicated veneer glue. On larger pieces, the only success that I had was with the use of contact glue. Of course, one has to be careful....you don't get a second chance with contact glue. If the pieces are small, veneer glue is OK as long as you can clamp with much pressure.

If your veneer is paper backed [as compared to raw], contact glue is a must in my experience.


I would build the cabinet and veneer after. You trim the edges with a small veneer saw. This saw is a must and is made just for that. Don't use a box knife or  other sharp blade....you risk damaging the veneer as you trim the edges

Apply contact glue evenly and not too thick otherwise you will get bumps in your veneer

I'm not an expert in veneer cabinet making, but this has been my experience after many hits and misses.  PM me if you need any other information



Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #10 on: July 05, 2014, 02:12:39 AM
How are you getting on with your speaker build?

Very tempted to scratch build a pair of Frugel Horn 3's myself at the moment in anticipation for the arrival of my sex kit. Just starting to look into it more seriously now.

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline tdogzthmn

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Reply #11 on: February 24, 2015, 03:40:11 PM
Any updates on this? 

I've been looking for a new pair of speakers to pair with my Stereomour and have been looking into the FH3 flat packs.  Wondering  if you have had time to hear your horns with the Stereomour?  I'm hoping they have enough power and are able to produce a solid bass response.



Offline M42

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Reply #12 on: February 24, 2015, 04:31:38 PM
I have been delayed in completing my speakers for some time. They are now assembled and running with my Stereomour. However, I only have about 130 hours of run in time on them to date and have yet to install the acoustic batting in the front section of the horn...the sides are clamped temporarily. I was terribly disappointed with them the first time I heard them, despite being aware that they require a break in period of some two to three hundred hours or more! That said they now sound altogether different. I think with more time on them I'm going to be very happy with them. Bass and imaging are vastly improved. From what I understand the stuffing in the front of the horn is to attenuate the amount of based being produced. At this point I wouldn't characterize the bass as being anywhere near excessive, but the low end seems to be developing nicely. Once I have another hundred hours or so on them, I'll add the stuffing to the front of the horn to see what difference it makes. My speakers are in the corners of a very small room...9 x 10 feet.

Jeff Hullin

Stereomour(2A3), Eros, Crack/Speedball, Thorens TD160 MKII, Grace F9E, Sennheiser HD600's, Frugelhorn 3's, DIY 8" Subs.

If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it.


Offline feeench

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Reply #13 on: February 24, 2015, 04:41:58 PM
Keep us updated :) I'm interested in the results of this as well.



Offline docbob52

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Reply #14 on: October 10, 2015, 12:02:06 PM
M42. Give us an update on the Frugel Horn mk3's after break in. I'm building a pair now

Garrard 301/ high mass plinth, SME 312S tonearm/ Sleeping beauty cartridge/ Denon AU 320SUT. Transcendent audio GG preamp and OTL SOB power amp. Blumenstein Orca/Dungeness Speakers

Second system.  BH Paramount 300B amps.  BeePre.  Sony SCD777ES, Wyred4 sound Dac. Mac mini.