Tube Rolling w/Crack

Dr. Toobz · 1224123

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Offline tdogzthmn

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Reply #75 on: December 11, 2010, 08:00:26 AM
I got my 5998 yesterday and I have been running along with a 5814.  Its a good combo and the 5998 definitely has a positive impact on the sound.



Offline ToolGuyFred

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Reply #76 on: December 12, 2010, 04:57:52 AM
... smaller output caps (220uF Black Gates) ...
Oops. Should read 22uF. This lightens the bass a bit but the 580s aren't short on bass.

Just tried the second example of the GE 6AS7GA, much better than the first one. No microphonics and very close to the sound of the Mullard 6080. The Mullard has a slight edge in solidity and detail resolution though.

John
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Offline tdogzthmn

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Reply #77 on: January 08, 2011, 03:30:58 PM
The E80CC looks appealing to me and I do have the speedball in my amp so I'm guessing its safe to try it out.  I use the 5998 mostly as a power tube so ideally the E80CC would work well in combination.  I really like the fast, detail oriented tubes that will run well with my 120ohm AKGs.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2011, 03:37:33 PM by tdogzthmn »



Offline Dr. Toobz

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Reply #78 on: January 19, 2011, 04:50:03 PM
Another driver tube experiment to report on, and a weird one at that: a Chatham 2399. This oddball tube doesn't appear to be that common in the literature, but from what I read, it's basically a re-badged Tung-Sol 5998. I've seen a few people question whether this is the case, or that the 2399 might be sort of "in between" a 6080 and 5998. From the 5998-type dotted plates to the noticeably lower output impedance the tube yields in the cathode follower arrangement (32 ohm phones that sounded like crap on the stock circuit sound much better and balanced with the 2399), it is obviously more like a 5998 than a 6080. In fact, I have no reason to believe it is not just a 5998 in different clothing.

I have found that the 2399 is a bit brighter (or more clinical?) than the 6N13S I was using before, so the driver tube was changed to temper the overall sound. The 12BH7 sounded much worse (sharp and dry, almost sold-state sounding) with the 2399 than a 5963/12AU7, so I went back to the former. Tube rolling seems to be all about balance - a dry sounding, bright power tube may have great synergy with a softer driver tube, and vice versa. Granted, I think this also has to do with the impedance that my 300 ohm HD-650's "like to see" - lower isn't necessarily better. In this case, I seem to like the 2399/5963 combo a bit better than the 6N13S/12BH7 one used before, so I'm going to stick with that setup for a while.



Offline hasafraker

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Reply #79 on: January 23, 2011, 10:56:58 AM
question for anyone, I have a pinacle audio 12au7 that flashes (one filament only) when I power up the amp, none of my other 12au7's or variants do this. It seems to sound ok. Is this anything I should worry about?

as long as it sounds good, who cares?

Main system; AT-LP120-USB Turntable w/AT440MLa, Bottlehead Reduction Phono, Decware ZSP1 Preamp, Pass Labs ACA Monoblocks, PSB Alpha B1's, MartinLogan Dynamo 300 sub. Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Interconnects and stands all DIY.


Offline JC

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Reply #80 on: January 23, 2011, 11:05:42 AM
Sounds like it might be of European heritage.  The flashing filaments were, for some years, part of their version of "controlled warm-up" for their heaters.  I've seen it most often in 12Axx series tubes, but they used it in others as well.

If this is the case, it is nothing to be concerned about.

Edit: I now see that Angela Instruments had some 12AU7s on E-Bay listed as "Pinnacle European Audio Tube", so I'd say the odds are better that you have a Euro-tube.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2011, 11:15:10 AM by JC »

Jim C.


Offline hasafraker

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Reply #81 on: January 23, 2011, 11:33:01 AM
JC, thanks for the info! Yes this is in fact one of Angela's ebay tubes. I've purchased lots of random items from them over the years and the tube was pretty reasonable, $10 shipped I think so not much of a risk to give one a try. It seems to sound pretty good, at least as good as the other 12au7's I have.

as long as it sounds good, who cares?

Main system; AT-LP120-USB Turntable w/AT440MLa, Bottlehead Reduction Phono, Decware ZSP1 Preamp, Pass Labs ACA Monoblocks, PSB Alpha B1's, MartinLogan Dynamo 300 sub. Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Interconnects and stands all DIY.


Offline JC

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Reply #82 on: January 23, 2011, 01:40:37 PM
That certainly seems very reasonable, considering what new-manufacture ones go for retail.

As I've mentioned before, my first experience with this flashing phenomenon was in a vintage British guitar amp that just been purchased by the shop I was doing some repair work for.  We knew nothing about it at the time, so I think you can imagine the owner's face when four of those little flashes went off when he turned the amp on for the first time!  I don't think he could have got to that plug any faster on a bet!


Jim C.


Offline spear321

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Reply #83 on: January 27, 2011, 06:05:16 AM
Waiting for Crack to arrive, stuck in customs I think.

But have bought some 13D5 think these are 6.3V
Do I have to do any mods to the heater wiring, or will they just go straight in?

If have to mod, will a 12au7 work all right afterwards, don't want to have to keep swapping the wiring, I know you lot would put in a switch somehow, but I am afraid my buildings not up to that.

Thanks in advance for any help, did not think about this when I bought them, oh hum.

Cheers Paul

Paul Batstone (UK)

Astin Trew 3500+ CD player,Rotel Tuner, Pure i20 Dock into muse 4 x TDA 1843 DAC (non oversampling)World Audio Design KIT6550 Amplifier, KEF Q500 speakers, Michell Syncro TT, Bottlehead Crack, Sennheisser HD600


Offline Nocturnal

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Reply #84 on: January 30, 2011, 06:40:35 AM

Is the 6528 a plug in replacement for the 6080 and usable in the stock Crack?   I don't see it listed at the start of this thread.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6528.html
« Last Edit: January 30, 2011, 06:43:12 AM by Nocturnal »



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #85 on: January 30, 2011, 06:51:15 AM
No, a 6528 won't work - draws twice the heater current.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Nocturnal

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Reply #86 on: January 30, 2011, 06:55:26 AM
No, a 6528 won't work - draws twice the heater current.

Dang, it apparently helps to lower impedance.  Thought it'd be interesting to try it with my Grado headphones.



Offline Doc B.

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Reply #87 on: January 30, 2011, 07:26:05 AM
You can't lower the impedance of Crack close enough to the 32 ohm range to sound as good as it does with higher impedance headphones. IMO it will be nice, but not fantastic, even with a 5998 (which sounds great with Senns, Beyers, etc). However we are working on a new, different amp circuit that would specifically address 32 ohm headphones.

Dan "Doc B." Schmalle
President For Life
Bottlehead Corp.


Offline Nocturnal

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Reply #88 on: January 30, 2011, 08:21:27 AM
You can't lower the impedance of Crack close enough to the 32 ohm range to sound as good as it does with higher impedance headphones. IMO it will be nice, but not fantastic, even with a 5998 (which sounds great with Senns, Beyers, etc). However we are working on a new, different amp circuit that would specifically address 32 ohm headphones.

  A modification to the Crack or a new product?



Offline hasafraker

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Reply #89 on: January 30, 2011, 09:03:07 AM
ok Doc you've let the cat out of the bag...
Quote
However we are working on a new, different amp circuit that would specifically address 32 ohm headphones.
Any idea when this might arrive? care to share any details? :D

as long as it sounds good, who cares?

Main system; AT-LP120-USB Turntable w/AT440MLa, Bottlehead Reduction Phono, Decware ZSP1 Preamp, Pass Labs ACA Monoblocks, PSB Alpha B1's, MartinLogan Dynamo 300 sub. Bottlehead Crack w/Speedball, Interconnects and stands all DIY.