Tube Rolling w/Crack

Dr. Toobz · 1226186

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Offline hdtv00

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Reply #1110 on: March 23, 2015, 11:33:10 AM
I wonder if this was ok purchase. I paid $30 shipped for

1 5998 TUNG-SOL 1950's Hi Fi Amplifier Tube Date Code 322451-3

Tube Tested on a TV-7D/U Tester

40 is Minimum

Tube Tests 54-52

There are a few small pieces of loose glass inside of the tube, but this does not effect the performance.

 

I figured it could be a back up for my current one I use now even though it tests lowish it would be an ok backup for $30. Another strange thing is its look. 5998 is on the glass not the base. Have a look at this pic. It's on right side of tube to see what I mean.
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/hdtv00/16909778835/in/photostream/lightbox/)



Offline audiomaniac

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Reply #1111 on: March 23, 2015, 11:44:14 AM
I just received a SED-6AS7G Winged "C" 6H13C from the Tube Store. It was within my budget and my 1st tube roll! I'm using it with the stock input tube I received with my Crack amp. Sounds really good! Maybe a little more laid back from the stock 6080, but nice full sound! It's very quiet and I have no complains. Man, I'm loving this amp! ;D

John
------
Crack


Offline Chris65

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Reply #1112 on: March 23, 2015, 01:24:59 PM
Another strange thing is its look. 5998 is on the glass not the base. Have a look at this pic. It's on right side of tube to see what I mean.

Quite normal, some tubes were labelled on the base & some on the glass itself.




Offline Maxhawk

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Reply #1113 on: March 23, 2015, 04:32:57 PM
Quite normal, some tubes were labelled on the base & some on the glass itself.

Dimpled plates are a good indicator that it's a 5998 and not a 6AS7G.

Rob Cheng


Offline hdtv00

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Reply #1114 on: March 23, 2015, 05:18:28 PM
Thanks for the replies guys. I've only had my crack for short few days and not entirely familiar with tubes for it. Reading through this thread still. The person wanted $50 for it but I offered $22.50 and they accepted it. Now my only concern then is the test rating. 40 being min for good and it testing at 54-52. Any insight into how long a tube can last at its Min point. Or how long it might take it to go from 54-52 to its 40 min.

I've read lots of stuff on the 6922 for my Aune T1 but I don't remember seeing lots of take about how the tubes rating relates to how much longer it might last. Course it's based on usage but any general idea. I guess it doesn't matter to much being it was $30 and it's the real deal. It last however long it lasts I guess. Now to hope its silent when it gets here Thursday.

I did get a Amperex Orange Globe 12au7a because I loved them in my Aune T1 which feeds my crack. And I think it sounds just great to me. As much as the Telefunken ribbed plate 12au7 that was part of my purchase deal for the crack. I also bought another rib plate Telefunken as a back up for it because I loved it's sound.

I don't like the 6080 tube that it came with it's not as clean sounding to me. Not as crisp and detailed.



Offline hdtv00

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Reply #1115 on: March 24, 2015, 12:56:40 PM
If a tube tests 54/50  min being 40 how long do you guys think it might last in normal use. Few years, months? Any idea's anyone.



Offline Chris65

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Reply #1116 on: March 24, 2015, 01:52:46 PM
There are too many variables to say how long a tube will last. They have a 'rated' life but manufacturing tolerances, what circuit it is used in, how hard it is 'worked', use, etc....Brand new tubes can fail, old tubes can go for years & years.
Just use & enjoy!



Offline Koop

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Reply #1117 on: March 24, 2015, 05:05:59 PM
Hey guys, new guy here  :)
I scored a used Crack with Speedball last week to go with my HD650's and I'm really diggin it!! So far I have replaced the stock 12AU7 with a Gold Lion ECC82, I didn't know where to start with NOS and I heard the gold lion was a good tube so I thought I'd try it out. Compared to the stock tube, the gold lion really brought the mids forward and added a significant amount of detail/texture to the music.
I still have the stock 6080 though and I'm thinking about replacing it.. to me it's tad bass heavy/bloated and tricks my ear into thinking there's a lack of treble in the mix, but there really isn't. I listen to a lot of drum-heavy progressive metal and it's hard to distinguish the cymbals at moderate volumes. Any recommendations on a tube that would open up the sound with a bit less bass but still pack a punch?
« Last Edit: March 24, 2015, 05:11:10 PM by Koop »



Offline ZacharyP

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Reply #1118 on: March 24, 2015, 11:44:07 PM
Just acquired two Tungsram ECC82 for $15 shipped, and according to the tester they tested well and at that price there isn't much risk.  :)



Offline Grainger49

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Reply #1119 on: March 25, 2015, 12:36:51 AM
Zachary,

At that price even if they tested low you would have hours of a good tube.  Nice deal!



Offline hdtv00

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Reply #1120 on: March 26, 2015, 11:19:05 AM
Did I just score an unmarked Western Electric 421a. I'm pretty sure I just did for $175. What do ya guys think. Does that mean my tube search is over now. Anything in the test results to worry about?



Offline Maxhawk

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Reply #1121 on: March 26, 2015, 11:22:19 AM
I've seen  discussion arguing whether a 421A is really just a hand-picked/special 5998. Hold it side by side with your 5998. Is it identical or are there differences?

Rob Cheng


Offline JamieMcC

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Reply #1122 on: March 26, 2015, 01:38:06 PM
I've seen  discussion arguing whether a 421A is really just a hand-picked/special 5998. Hold it side by side with your 5998. Is it identical or are there differences?

Mine are different but  I have noticed several variations in 5998 construction the closest I have is a early  5998 clear top later ones are silver topped which is one of the most noticeable differences. I did have three differing 5998's at one point and might still have but would have to check if that's still the case as have sold a couple recently.

Shoot for the moon if you miss you will still be amongst the stars!


Offline ZacharyP

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Reply #1123 on: March 26, 2015, 11:41:53 PM
Zachary,

At that price even if they tested low you would have hours of a good tube.  Nice deal!


Yes I am one happy camper!  :)



Offline hdtv00

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Reply #1124 on: March 27, 2015, 09:15:50 AM
This is what vacuumtubes.net had to say when I asked how they can tell its a 421a and not just a 5998.

"Tung-Sol (and their subsidiary brand Chatham) was the only company to ever produce the 5998 (both the top and bottom getter variants).  You'll see them branded with GE, Sylvania, RCA and every other smaller name out there- but they are all Tung-Sol.

The WE421a is rather similar to the TS bottom-getter 5998.  They sound similar, they look alike, and they have rather close operating specs.  However, the 421a is a vastly superior tube, but considering it's scarcity most people end up with 5998s because collecting a quad of matched 421a is somewhere between unlikely and impossible, and the 'close enough' factor applies."

There was more about history of Western Electric and what not. He didn't answer directly I guess the question but seems to know what they're talking about I guess. I said go ahead and invoice me for it. Time will tell I guess.

They emailed back and explained much further and in detail.
" I'm glad that our reputation proceeds us, but I still like to make sure that we're always known to be on the level.  There is one easy way to identify the 421a over the 5998.  The top mica and support column has three evenly spaced separators in a triangle.
 
(((Sorry for the poor photo.  We really need a better camera in the office...)))
 
The 5998 just has 2.  Beyond etching, printing, boxes and labels- the internal construction can't be faked.  Most of the "421a" tubes on eBay are actually bottom getter 5998s (or sometimes they're even trying to pass top getter variants!).  Ask them for a photo of the top of the tube and most of them just don't answer.
 
The 421a comes with two types of printing:
The first is the well-known heavy yellow paint.  It was an early form of thermographics, and the lettering is raised.  Not just raised a little- but often enough to tell what the characters are without looking at the tube.
The other is blank.  These were left unbranded for commercial sales to radio and industrial manufacturers.  Not flat printing, not printing on the glass, not white lettering on the top of the glass...  they were heavy yellow or blank.  Everything else is rolled on after production.
 
  When you're looking at audio tubes, and especially expensive tubes, you have more than a right to ask about its authenticity.  If it is a tube I can't prove I'll give you my reasoning as to why I feel one way or another, and we can compare notes and research.  We would rather pass on a sale of an iffy than risk that hard-built reputation."
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 10:47:21 AM by hdtv00 »