Manual Erata - 10/18/15 Version

[Paul Birkeland]

On the bottom of page 17 and top of page 18, we have accidentally swapped the linear/logarithmic potentiometers.

Please note that the B100K linear pot goes next to the selector switch, and the A100K logarithmic pot occupies the other hole closer to the TRS jack.

[adam1016]

Thanks for being so great about helping me out over the phone.  I really appreciate it.

[Paul Birkeland]

Thanks for being so great about helping me out over the phone.  I really appreciate it.

We appreciate hearing from you and being able to share the corrections with those whose kits are in transit. 

-PB

[adam1016]

Quick question, if I accidentally cut a couple of wire lengths a bit long, I'll have enough wire to finish my build, right?  How much room for error is included in wiring?

[Doc B.]

We add about 10% or more to the total of cut lengths called out in the manual. So if you need to cut 10 feet total you will see 11 on the check list. You might not believe that when reading about builders running short, but we've been throwing extra wire in kits for like 20 years. I have no idea what those guys do with the extra to come up short.

[2wo]

 ...John

[Rocketman248]

I think I found another error in the manual.  On page 29, it says to add a 220ohm resistor between A9 and 7L.  I believe that should be 13L.

[Paul Birkeland]

I think I found another error in the manual.  On page 29, it says to add a 220ohm resistor between A9 and 7L.  I believe that should be 13L.

Yes indeed, that would need to be a very long resistor to reach that far!

[bsingh]

On page 35, the pictures for terminal B and terminal C connections on the selector switch seem to contradict the instructions. Unlike instructed in the manual, the pictures show terminal B wired to the lug closest to the back of the chassis on the bottom row of the potentiometer and terminal C connected to the lug closest to the front of the chassis on the top row of the potentiometer. Are the instructions correct or the pictures?

***EDIT***
I noticed they are both ground, so they must be interchangeable. Is that correct?

[Paul Birkeland]

You are correct that it looks like B and C got switched by accident in the text.  You are also correct that the amplifier will work wired either way.  (Though we'd recommend following the photos on this one)

[bsingh]

I think I found another error in the manual.  On page 29, it says to add a 220ohm resistor between A9 and 7L.  I believe that should be 13L.

To add to Rocketman248's correction, do not solder the lead of the resistor to 13L yet as it's used for other connections later on during the building process.

[Rocketman248]

To add to Rocketman248's correction, do not solder the lead of the resistor to 13L yet as it's used for other connections later on during the building process.

To further add to that, the manual never says to solder 13L, but it should be soldered in the first step on Page 41. 

[adam1016]

You are correct that it looks like B and C got switched by accident in the text.  You are also correct that the amplifier will work wired either way.  (Though we'd recommend following the photos on this one)

Will there be any noticeable difference in sound quality? I've already passed this part, and would rather not redo this wiring.

[Paul Birkeland]

Will there be any noticeable difference in sound quality? I've already passed this part, and would rather not redo this wiring.

The volume control and balance control will not work as you would expect in terms of how much adjustment you get at a given increment of twisting the knob, but the amplifier will still function properly otherwise.  If you've soldered to these, we can send you a replacement pair.

[fullheadofnothing]

How does swapping the grounds cause the volume/balance to not work? Also, the wires are the same length. Resoldering them would maybe take 30 seconds.