left channel dies after 5 minutes

denti alligator · 8005

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Offline denti alligator

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Reply #15 on: April 09, 2017, 02:54:36 AM
Thanks, I have tried that. But I will try it again.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline maryc27182

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Reply #16 on: April 09, 2017, 03:26:19 AM
Hey Sam, I had a similar problem in my Eros (lost a channel after 4-6 minutes, and this was also after having decent operation for months before the problem exhibited itself.)

You may have already re-soldered these, but for me, it was a 2N2907A--one of the solder joints on the legs wasn't solid. I don't use a lot of solder on those little joints, and I guess it wasn't enough.

I ran across this when I was trying to figure out if it could have been the 2N2907A:

https://www.head-fi.org/t/476650/crack-bottlehead-otl/8115#post_13288157

Possibly worth a shot if you haven't already tried it. Good luck.

Mary

DIY 2-ways (TAD TD-2002, AE TD15M), Stereomour 45
Fostex TH-500RP, S.E.X. 2.1
Eros Phono


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #17 on: April 09, 2017, 10:00:56 AM
It probably wouldn't hurt to try a different 6080 as well, but your voltage measurements have me suspicious that replacing the 2N2222 and TIP50 on the offending side might be in order.

DO NOT reheat the solder joints on the LED's.  The HLMP-6000 is hygroscopic and after such a long time out in the open, reheating the LED's with a soldering iron may cause them to crack.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #18 on: April 09, 2017, 10:12:50 AM
I have swopped out the 6080 and it makes no difference. Are there any joints you suggest I re-try before we try replacing parts?

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #19 on: April 09, 2017, 03:20:37 PM
I have swopped out the 6080 and it makes no difference. Are there any joints you suggest I re-try before we try replacing parts?
Both of the transistors on the big C4S board that feed that offending side.  Also check for loose or broken wires.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #20 on: April 09, 2017, 04:14:54 PM
Done... and for the first time ever I have smoke !!

Turned it off instantly. What to do now?

(Looks like the wire connecting 14 to 20 was melting... if that tells you anything)
« Last Edit: April 09, 2017, 04:47:13 PM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #21 on: April 09, 2017, 05:46:01 PM
Measure the resistance between the "O" pad on each side of the big C4S board and ground.  We are getting somewhere I think.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #22 on: April 10, 2017, 02:55:19 AM
I'm not getting a reading at all on either side.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #23 on: April 10, 2017, 07:06:32 AM
Redo the voltage test with the 6080 removed.

-PB

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #24 on: April 11, 2017, 11:47:30 AM
1  -0.23
5  -.156
7  -.091
9  1.392  (and steadily decreasing)
15  244.5
18  96.9
19  96.9
21  245.1

A1  -.187
A3  .859
A6  -.079
A8  .909

B1  -.034
B3  .087
B4  -.113
B6  1.281 and steadily decreasing

all the rest are 0

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #25 on: April 11, 2017, 11:53:26 AM
What do you have at terminal 2?  (Your 12AU7 is still plugged in, right?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #26 on: April 11, 2017, 12:09:13 PM
12AU7 is still in.
Terminal 2 is getting no reading. The +/- is flickering and it shows 0.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2017, 11:12:36 AM by denti alligator »

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline Paul Birkeland

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Reply #27 on: April 13, 2017, 12:09:51 PM
How about terminal 13?  How about B2 and B5?

Paul "PB" Birkeland

Bottlehead Grunt & The Repro Man


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #28 on: April 13, 2017, 01:20:52 PM
I could check them again, but everything I didn't list was 0 or no reading.

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable


Offline denti alligator

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Reply #29 on: April 13, 2017, 04:09:01 PM
B5 and 13 are 0
B2 is 0.002

- Sam

Rega P3-24 (w/AT 150MLX) w/Groovetracer upgrades / Eros II / FLAC >J.River >DSD256 >Gustard X20 / Moreplay > Stereomour II / Klipsch Forte II w/Crites upgrades / C4S S.E.X. 2.0 +Nickel MQ Iron / Speedball Crack / Sennheiser HD600 w/Cardas cable