1
Technical topics / Re: Moreplay output impedance
« Last post by Altecboy on Yesterday at 11:37:56 PM »Thanks, Paul.
Recent Posts
2
Mainline / Re: Buzz on left channel
« Last post by Tabaia on Yesterday at 05:24:30 PM »After going through all the soldering joints cables , tapping on the chassis, tapping on the components, looking over the whole unit in detail I finally turned it over and pulled the tubes out reinserted them a number of time.
Not it works perfectly again.
Thank you all for your support.
By the way I used the Cardas solder.
Not it works perfectly again.
Thank you all for your support.
By the way I used the Cardas solder.
3
Mainline / Re: Buzz on left channel
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on Yesterday at 04:23:01 PM »Can you post build photos? What kind of solder was used on the build?
4
Moreplay / Re: Back again...problems with fading to black [resolved]
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on Yesterday at 03:57:48 PM »With the Hakko 888, it's very easy to think that you are turning up the tip temperature, when instead you are actually adjusting the calibration and making the tip cooler.
5
Technical topics / Re: Moreplay output impedance
« Last post by Paul Birkeland on Yesterday at 03:53:59 PM »A 10K load is starting to push the limits a little bit on what the Moreplay would like to see.
6
Moreplay / Re: Back again...problems with fading to black
« Last post by anthonynchandler on Yesterday at 06:16:55 AM »Okay,
I am sorry that this took me so long to fix, but my soldering iron melted down mid-repair...and that may have solved the problem: my Hakko soldering iron feels like it may have been a "fake", and after 12 years of service it slowly had died a bad death. Anyway, I found a replacement for $17 on Amazon (probably also fake), but it now suddenly works and took away all cold solder looks that I was getting on the joints. It is like night and day, so I redid everything and presto-chango - it all works again.
I expect that this is what caused the capacitor to begin its bulge.I found that once I resoldered everything it was visually clear that the iron had not heated connections well at all. So I expect Paul was right that there was something wrong leading into the capacitor. I am going to put the Moreplay back into the system and let it run for a bit before vacation. When I come back I will replace the two capacitors and see. Then I will do the upgrade and probably be back in the forum with tears - ha ha ha.
One last thing...I have found that I can use the Moreplay output to my Crack with Speedball if I put a Schitt SYS into the chain. Unlike the attenuator solution, I can connect the SYS to the output, then run an RCA cable to the monoblocks and the second one to the Crack. This allows me to mute the channel going to the monos when listening to headphones AND it attenuates the too hot signal from the Moreplay as a passive preamp. When listening to speakers its volume is up and when using the Crack it is down. Just thought I would share that solution!
Thanks as always...let's hope this stays fixed!
Anthony
I am sorry that this took me so long to fix, but my soldering iron melted down mid-repair...and that may have solved the problem: my Hakko soldering iron feels like it may have been a "fake", and after 12 years of service it slowly had died a bad death. Anyway, I found a replacement for $17 on Amazon (probably also fake), but it now suddenly works and took away all cold solder looks that I was getting on the joints. It is like night and day, so I redid everything and presto-chango - it all works again.
I expect that this is what caused the capacitor to begin its bulge.I found that once I resoldered everything it was visually clear that the iron had not heated connections well at all. So I expect Paul was right that there was something wrong leading into the capacitor. I am going to put the Moreplay back into the system and let it run for a bit before vacation. When I come back I will replace the two capacitors and see. Then I will do the upgrade and probably be back in the forum with tears - ha ha ha.
One last thing...I have found that I can use the Moreplay output to my Crack with Speedball if I put a Schitt SYS into the chain. Unlike the attenuator solution, I can connect the SYS to the output, then run an RCA cable to the monoblocks and the second one to the Crack. This allows me to mute the channel going to the monos when listening to headphones AND it attenuates the too hot signal from the Moreplay as a passive preamp. When listening to speakers its volume is up and when using the Crack it is down. Just thought I would share that solution!
Thanks as always...let's hope this stays fixed!
Anthony
7
Technical topics / Adding an idle off circuit
« Last post by ryanppax on Yesterday at 05:55:49 AM »Hi all, new crack owner here.
Newbie to circuit design but not reading and implementing wiring schematics
I've found myself constantly forgetting to turn the amp off. I'll come back 8 hours later and its still on. So I've thought of putting a timer plug on, even a smart plug with an hourly auto off schedule. But that's no fun...
I'd like to implement something like an idle off circuit. My Modi DAC has something similar, I can hear the relay click on when I turn my computer on. So I'd love to trigger the power on of the crack to when audio is detected, and turn off after some period. Also some power button (non toggle) to function the same and drive a mains relay.
Newbie to circuit design but not reading and implementing wiring schematics
I've found myself constantly forgetting to turn the amp off. I'll come back 8 hours later and its still on. So I've thought of putting a timer plug on, even a smart plug with an hourly auto off schedule. But that's no fun...
I'd like to implement something like an idle off circuit. My Modi DAC has something similar, I can hear the relay click on when I turn my computer on. So I'd love to trigger the power on of the crack to when audio is detected, and turn off after some period. Also some power button (non toggle) to function the same and drive a mains relay.
8
Eros Phono / Re: Input resistor change, to 150K
« Last post by Paul Joppa on Yesterday at 04:42:33 AM »It won't hurt anything in the Eros, but your SUT may not like it. The 3x higher impedance calls for 3x more inductance in the bass, and it will provide 3x less damping of the high frequency resonance. That may or may not be a problem, depending on the particular transformer.
9
Eros Phono / Input resistor change, to 150K
« Last post by Ivan303 on Yesterday at 03:25:30 AM »So the new Hana SL Mk II 'mono' cartridge wants to see something closer to 400-500 Ohms while my current stepups are PERFECT for the Hana Blue at 150 ohms going to the current 47K input of the Eros2.
Eros II has an extra hole in the top chassis (for a switch?) so I could have the input resistor switchable between 47K to 150K?
Lot easier that building another step-up box.
Eros II has an extra hole in the top chassis (for a switch?) so I could have the input resistor switchable between 47K to 150K?
Lot easier that building another step-up box.
10
Mainline / Re: Buzz on left channel
« Last post by Tabaia on July 01, 2025, 05:15:11 PM »Hello Again,
Still trying to problem solve the buzzing.
Have again and quite meticulously while the amp is on and with headphones gone through with a bamboo skewer and probe'd all wiring, listening for any changes but could not detect anything.
Also gently wiggled the transformers. Agin could not detect anything.
Kindly advise of the next step to take.
Many thanks
Still trying to problem solve the buzzing.
Have again and quite meticulously while the amp is on and with headphones gone through with a bamboo skewer and probe'd all wiring, listening for any changes but could not detect anything.
Also gently wiggled the transformers. Agin could not detect anything.
Kindly advise of the next step to take.
Many thanks